'Injection fault'

[Iggypop]

Hello everybody,
I've got an '04 1.9 DCI. I had a problem starting it about a week or so ago, pressed the button and it didn't turn over. Tried a few more times and eventually it fired up as normal. We've had the cold spell recently and I've not used it for a few days, started it yesterday and it took a while but started after a few tries. Tried it tonight and it wouldn't turn over and I'm getting an 'Injection fault' message. I've not noticed a glow plug warning light or anything (which was my first thought) so thought I'd ask on here first before getting my hands cold and dirty.

[Ray]

probably glowplugs

[davelowe]

Just to elaborate, there is a thread about checking them. Very easy to do with a multimeter.

[Iggypop]

I've put 4 new glow plugs in this morning, still no joy. Has anybody got a plan B?

I've checked the battery, that's holding 12v.

[davelowe]

12V is not a charged battery. 12.2V is the absolute minimum, with 12.5V being what I would call 'charged'. If it's the original one, it might be time to replace it. Older batteries are prone to a bigger voltage drop when cranking the engine due to an increase in internal resistance (especially when cold). This can lead to spurious error messages. Check also that you are getting at least 13.5 - 14.8V with the engine running.

[Iggypop]

I would suspect the battery but have tried jump starting the car, still just a bit of a click and no action. Thought maybe the starter motor was sticking so I've tried bumping it, still nothing.

[AlexB]

When the starter engages, does it take longer than a second to fire up? I would be still suspecting the battery or the contacts. If it is the original battery, it needs to be replaced anyway.

[davelowe]

I would suspect the battery but have tried jump starting the car, still just a bit of a click and no action. Thought maybe the starter motor was sticking so I've tried bumping it, still nothing.

This often happens with jump leads. You need around 155 amps to start the car. Consider the crocodile clip contact area compared with a tightened corrosion free battery terminal....

Plus, if the original battery is poor, it will make the jump lead start more difficult.

AlexB offers sensible advice, and for the sake of £50, take it. Get a new battery.

[Iggypop]

When I press the button I just get a couple of clicks but it won't try to fire, even bumping down a big hill it didn't attempt to start. Just waiting for the RAC man to arrive.

[Iggypop]

Sorted, it was the battery after all that! Thanks for your help.

I've got another problem now, I'm trying to put the radio code in. I put the first digit in and press the button, get a beep but it's not moving on to the next number?

[direstraits]

The procedure is simple (if you have the right code). The first symbol on the display is blinking: enter the first number, then press No. 2 on the unit (next digit of the code starts to blink) and enter the next number of the code, press No. 3 on the unit (again next digit will start blinking) and enter the next number of the code, press 4 and enter the last digit of the code, and press and hold 6 to save the code. It will work only if you have the right code. If not, go to the stealer and ask for the code of your radio.

[AlexB]

Of course it won't. First, you need to switch the "ignition" on without starting the engine. Press and hold the start button for 5 seconds while not touching the pedals. Then bump.

When I press the button I just get a couple of clicks but it won't try to fire, even bumping down a big hill it didn't attempt to start. Just waiting for the RAC man to arrive.

[Iggypop]

Of course it won't. First, you need to switch the "ignition" on without starting the engine. Press and hold the start button for 5 seconds while not touching the pedals. Then bump.

Bugger, wish I'd known that last night whilst trying to steer the car for a mile and a half in the dark on snowy roads with a queue of traffic behind me doing 15mph!

Will try the code again soon.

Cheers.