OK chaps. During motorway journeys my megane would randomly lose power whilst accelerating then kick in again. Eml and service light is on and codes indicate egr valve. I cleaned it yesterday so I know there ain't no gunk about.
My question is: how would you bench test an egr valve? I.e how can I see it working in air?
Would be interested to know if anyone has done this before. I did a quick Google and I believe it takes 5 volts to engage (open).
I'm almost tempted to turn the egr valve by 180 to stop it from engaging. What would the long term effects be?
I've got a 1.5dci (80) megane 2004.
Bench testing egr
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Re: Bench testing egr
Hi,
l believe it works on a stepper motor, it's on you tube how to test or see it working.
Look up 'renault megane egr valve testing'.
Good luck
Bob.
l believe it works on a stepper motor, it's on you tube how to test or see it working.
Look up 'renault megane egr valve testing'.
Good luck
Bob.
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Re: Bench testing egr
Cheers Bob.
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Re: Bench testing egr
Hello there.....
Re testing the egr and the pinouts.
I tested mine in situ by connecting a voltmeter ( on DC voltage scale) across pins 2 and 6. Pin 6 is the "result wire" back to the ecu. Pin 2 is an electronic earth.I joined two wires to these wires( back a few cms from the pins) and brought them out of the engine bay and into the passenger seat ( the bonnet will close and the window almost closes fully)...Inside in the car I connected the voltmeter. I had cleaned the egr before this testing. At idle I got 1.3v and as you drive along the road you will notice the voltage rising from 1.3v to 2.0v. This corrosponds to the valve opening and closing ( closed at 1.3v and fully open at 2.0v) When the engine is idling and at full trottle the egr is closed. Inbetween these values the voltage values corrospond to various opening positions. For the egr to operate the vehicle needs to be in motion so it needs to be driven to carry out this test ( get a 2nd person to drive the car)
Pin1 is green ( big wire) = chassis earth. Pin 2 is green ( small wire ) = electronic earth. Pin 3 is spare. Pin 4 is white = +5v. Pin 5 is grey/red = +12v. Pin 6 is the result wire or output wire and is purple. As regards looking for +12v on pin5...I think this value may vary as I think the solenoid is energised by a pulsing voltage( voltmeter may not pick this up accurately).Its been a while since i did this test but I wrote the colour codes etc down in a notebook. My car is 2005 1.5dci Rgds Maurice
Re testing the egr and the pinouts.
I tested mine in situ by connecting a voltmeter ( on DC voltage scale) across pins 2 and 6. Pin 6 is the "result wire" back to the ecu. Pin 2 is an electronic earth.I joined two wires to these wires( back a few cms from the pins) and brought them out of the engine bay and into the passenger seat ( the bonnet will close and the window almost closes fully)...Inside in the car I connected the voltmeter. I had cleaned the egr before this testing. At idle I got 1.3v and as you drive along the road you will notice the voltage rising from 1.3v to 2.0v. This corrosponds to the valve opening and closing ( closed at 1.3v and fully open at 2.0v) When the engine is idling and at full trottle the egr is closed. Inbetween these values the voltage values corrospond to various opening positions. For the egr to operate the vehicle needs to be in motion so it needs to be driven to carry out this test ( get a 2nd person to drive the car)
Pin1 is green ( big wire) = chassis earth. Pin 2 is green ( small wire ) = electronic earth. Pin 3 is spare. Pin 4 is white = +5v. Pin 5 is grey/red = +12v. Pin 6 is the result wire or output wire and is purple. As regards looking for +12v on pin5...I think this value may vary as I think the solenoid is energised by a pulsing voltage( voltmeter may not pick this up accurately).Its been a while since i did this test but I wrote the colour codes etc down in a notebook. My car is 2005 1.5dci Rgds Maurice
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Re: Bench testing egr
quaker@eircom.net wrote:Hello there.....
Re testing the egr and the pinouts.
I tested mine in situ by connecting a voltmeter ( on DC voltage scale) across pins 2 and 6. Pin 6 is the "result wire" back to the ecu. Pin 2 is an electronic earth.I joined two wires to these wires( back a few cms from the pins) and brought them out of the engine bay and into the passenger seat ( the bonnet will close and the window almost closes fully)...Inside in the car I connected the voltmeter. I had cleaned the egr before this testing. At idle I got 1.3v and as you drive along the road you will notice the voltage rising from 1.3v to 2.0v. This corrosponds to the valve opening and closing ( closed at 1.3v and fully open at 2.0v) When the engine is idling and at full trottle the egr is closed. Inbetween these values the voltage values corrospond to various opening positions. For the egr to operate the vehicle needs to be in motion so it needs to be driven to carry out this test ( get a 2nd person to drive the car)
Pin1 is green ( big wire) = chassis earth. Pin 2 is green ( small wire ) = electronic earth. Pin 3 is spare. Pin 4 is white = +5v. Pin 5 is grey/red = +12v. Pin 6 is the result wire or output wire and is purple. As regards looking for +12v on pin5...I think this value may vary as I think the solenoid is energised by a pulsing voltage( voltmeter may not pick this up accurately).Its been a while since i did this test but I wrote the colour codes etc down in a notebook. My car is 2005 1.5dci Rgds Maurice
My man! Will give this a test, cheers mate.
What about turning the egr 180 degrees so the blocks it off? Have you done that before? And what are the long term effects? I only need it to run till the end of this year.
Re: Bench testing egr
I just turned mine 180 deg no bother works perfectly wouldn't bother even testing it
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Re: Bench testing egr
I've seen videos of turning an egr. But what they turn is the metal part, where the valve goes through. I have an egr where the electronics body is also a part of the egr. Would mine do the same?
Re: Bench testing egr
Yes it wont be a problem, the egr will open and close as it should providing it is working and not gunged up but as you have turned it there is no way trough to the inlet manifold for the exhaust gasses and it wont flag a prob on the ecu.
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Re: Bench testing egr
my car is same 1.5dci 80
the egr valve on mine worked on the bench!, after cleaning and putting back - still it would throw up fault codes.
I got one from ebay , used for £15. Bench tested this and was fine - I used 12v so I could see it opening and closing.
The one off ebay worked fine, and fault codes dont appear anymore from it, but I had to clear the codes and turn off the service light and check injection messgage myself,.
So, you can bench test an egr valve, but doesnt mean its OK after passing the bench test! Mine wasnt and had to be replaced.
I also had a loss of power which was related to the map sensor.
the egr valve on mine worked on the bench!, after cleaning and putting back - still it would throw up fault codes.
I got one from ebay , used for £15. Bench tested this and was fine - I used 12v so I could see it opening and closing.
The one off ebay worked fine, and fault codes dont appear anymore from it, but I had to clear the codes and turn off the service light and check injection messgage myself,.
So, you can bench test an egr valve, but doesnt mean its OK after passing the bench test! Mine wasnt and had to be replaced.
I also had a loss of power which was related to the map sensor.
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Re: Bench testing egr
shakinthatass wrote:my car is same 1.5dci 80
the egr valve on mine worked on the bench!, after cleaning and putting back - still it would throw up fault codes.
I got one from ebay , used for £15. Bench tested this and was fine - I used 12v so I could see it opening and closing.
The one off ebay worked fine, and fault codes dont appear anymore from it, but I had to clear the codes and turn off the service light and check injection messgage myself,.
So, you can bench test an egr valve, but doesnt mean its OK after passing the bench test! Mine wasnt and had to be replaced.
I also had a loss of power which was related to the map sensor.
Fair point lad. I actually tried to turn the valve by 180, but was physically impossible. The housing where the breather hose went into blocked it from fitting flush.
I did notice that it was pretty difficult to open the valve, so I squirted a bit of plus gas to free it up. Hey presto!! Eml lights went out and car was running superb. Basically I need a new valve...
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