Engine Management & Service Light

[BlackOrnstein]

I'll get straight to the point and put everything in bullet points and I'll elaborate on anything needed.

Engine rpm was low at idle 300rpm + slight shaking
When driving the car it would occasionally Judder as in when I'm driving it would kind of jolt, like when you stall and the car leaps forward a few times before dying ( except the car would still drive)
The biting point needed a lot of gas
Engine management and service light came on together like 2/3 Weeks ago

I fitted a new camshaft sensor as I tested the ignition coils (Pulled each one out to see a difference in engine function) and found no difference

The engine management light and service light remain but car drives better-ish... Mpg is now 22-28 ):

Also the rpm surges then goes back down
E.g: in in gear 3 doing 23mph and I push my foot in completely and the rpm would rocket up to 4000 then quickly go back down to 3000 and steadily increase from there...

Any advice on how to resolve the warning lights? Can't be spark plugs I changed them 2 months ago (all 4)

[AlexB]

The engine is an easy thing - start with OBD, any garage can do it, or get ELM327 from eBay for a fiver.

The second last paragraph is more worrying. It looks like the clutch is shot. With the DMF and slave cylinder it will cost about £1200.

[ChrisM]

Agree with alex
Last paragraph sounds like slipping clutch to me which is clutch kit and bearing and a good chance of flywheel knackerd as well as clutch slips it generates heat and burns the grease in the fly grease goes solid and fly jams and stats vibrating.

[BlackOrnstein]

Okay so with the proposed clutch problem let me add some more information so we aren't jumping to conclusions (I'm not tryna hear £1000+ fix lool)
Only happens when car has been running
Also not so frequent
Happens in all gears not just 3rd
Is there any way I can test the clutch myself without messing it up?

[ChrisM]

Sign of clutch slip on a hill let the car start to labour going up hill put foot to floor on a normal clutch revs will pick up slowly as car picks up speed. Slipping clutch revs shoot up as engine picks up speed but car does not initially as the clutch plate "grabs" engine speed is pulled down and the car starts pulling, usually coincides with asbestos type smell.
Other signs.
Crunch or stiff going into reverse.
I think its also high bite point on pedal (very long time since I have had this)
Could be way out on this but to be honest I cant think of anything that would raise revs like that whilst waiting for the car itself to catch up.

[BlackOrnstein]

Alright I've ordered a new clutch kit (£105) and found a cousin of a friend willing to fit the parts for £150-200 so I guess I'm fine for now. Good thing to know people I heard quotes can be as high as £800 from some people I knew. Cars going garage on Tuesday so I'll try and remember to update. But thanks for the replies lads really appreciate it.

[ChrisM]

Depends on how long you will keep car.
Cheap clutch kits can be quite harsh and give a heavy pedal would also consider changing release bearing whilst you r in there.

[BlackOrnstein]

How much would you recommend spending on a clutch kit? Links would be appreciated.

Also, what does a release bearing do and how will it help my situation??

Thanks

[ChrisM]

Very basic release bearing presses on the fingers of the presuee plate forcing the clutch plate to disconnect drive its a very important part of the clutch.
Generally good practice to change it whilst you have thw box our new clutch old release is well stupid as once disturbed they have a nasty habit of wining later and the giving up which then means box out yet again generally known as false economy.
Personally if it was me and keeping car I would put and LUK clutch in as they are oe speck clutches most cars on road have either LUK or SACHS clutches eurocar parts stat at around £130 as mine is a diesel I would be changing flywheel as well the release bearing on your renault is also the clutch slave so again good practice to change it otherwise it could well be box out twice which is rarher silly when you are there already suprised the chap changing it didn't say this.
I put a cheap as chips one in my wifes car it was rock hard we sold car two years later clutch was still rock hard... never again.

[AlexB]

Slave cylinders tend to fail occasionally in these cars. I've seen reports about these. They are made with plastic and sit on the gearbox shaft. When replacing the clutch it makes sense to replace the slave as well to save on future costs. A slave cylinder comes with a clutch release bearing.

The main cost is labour. £200 is cheaper than any garage.

[BlackOrnstein]

Yh clutch replacement is cheap but the guys a cousin of a close friend so...

Also, I've ordered a luk clutch with slave cylinder. With the engine mgmt light, I plugged in the OBD II thing and its showing fault codes: PO340 AND pO010.
PO340: camshaft sensor 'A' Bank or single circuit
PO010: 'A' camshaft position actuator circuit

I replaced the camshaft sensor already?? So I'm a bit confused

[AlexB]

Start with reading the factory workshop manual about these codes. The circuit means wires.