Thats probably why then

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weldore
Passed Theory
Posts: 36
Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2008 7:46 pm
Currently Drives:: megane estate 1.9 dci
Location: nottinghamshire

Thats probably why then

Postby weldore » Thu Sep 12, 2013 6:24 pm

hi all , thought you might be interested in a photo.

I took the car for the mot and it always fails on something ,this time it was the rear discs and low effort from the handbrake.
All sorted now but also the rear number plate lights wernt working .
I had a good browse on't forum and after checking the bulbs (which were fine) I did a test and found no power to the connections.
Next it was off with the battery and checking the fuses in the engine bay (I still don't know which one it is in there :? ) but they all looked fine so I put it all back together.
Now then...a few years ago my rear wiper stopped working and the heated rear screenand I just thought ..bloody Renault wiring at its finest..and just didn't bother trying to fix it but with this new problem thought I might try and track it down.
I took the rear panel off in the boot and did a continuity test on the wires from there up to the plugs in the boot lid and found...there was no continuity :x

so I thought..i wonder if its to do with the wires from the boot to the body of the car..i stripped back the rubber boot and found this....



Image


:shock:

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morganjake1544
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Currently Drives:: Clio 1.5dCi 88 Dynamique Tom Tom 3 door in Oyster Grey Metallic
Location: Rossendale, Lancashire

Re: Thats probably why then

Postby morganjake1544 » Thu Sep 12, 2013 6:35 pm

Now I'm no expert but you may have found the cause of the problem.

:lol:
Clio 1.5 dCi 88 Dynamique Tom Tom in Oyster Grey + Twingo GT in Pearl Black on a '58'.

weldore
Passed Theory
Posts: 36
Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2008 7:46 pm
Currently Drives:: megane estate 1.9 dci
Location: nottinghamshire

Re: Thats probably why then

Postby weldore » Thu Sep 12, 2013 6:37 pm

:D
the worst part is ,no matter how far you strip the sleeves back the wire is too corroded to solder :banghead

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Stranger
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Re: Thats probably why then

Postby Stranger » Fri Sep 13, 2013 6:38 am

It'll buff out, no .... Wait, what :shock:
STOP DEVELOPMENT ON GREEN FIELD SITES! http://www.cpre.org.uk/

triumph2.5man
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Currently Drives:: Mondeo TDCI mk3 2002
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Re: Thats probably why then

Postby triumph2.5man » Fri Sep 13, 2013 7:15 pm

Yes that could possibly be why...!
You win the Photo of the Week competition!
Easy job, just strip the ends, twist together and cover with selotape!
I often wonder why builders of modern cars use wiring that is little thicker than cotton. I come from an era when you could hang urself on car wire. Moind yew, the electrical systems were much simpler in them there days.
Thanks for this.
Mike

tomalamix
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Currently Drives:: Megane II 1.5dCI 100HP

Re: Thats probably why then

Postby tomalamix » Sat Sep 14, 2013 9:57 pm

unfortunately this is common (another one...)...

the corroded wires are not possible to weld together, but with a terminal clip you can strip both ends of the broken wires, cut a piece of heat-shrinkable sleeve before (very important this part), place it in one of the wires, and then use the terminal clip to put that wires together again. Put the sleeve, heat it and its done for a few more door cycles.

second time it happens again i suggest to do like i did the 2nd time, strip the interior of the car and put new wire in place of the old one on that critical zone, search for good wire, corrosion resistance is preferable. i didnt use that kind because i was in hurry. be aware to DO NOT change the wire sections, specially on the window heater.

good luck


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