Megane 1.5dCi Sticking in 1st gear

[jamhops]

My Megane has started sticking in first gear about 50% of the time. It needs a couple of tries and more force to change too 2nd gear... I am dreading this is a new gear box and wondering whether to take out AA/RAC Breakdown and Repair Bill assistance cover if it is lightly to be a big repair and that is occurring?

Thanks

Ben

[davelowe]

Have you checked/changed the gear box oil recently? Also - is it difficult to get out of first, or difficult to get into second (if you follow my drift)?

One other thought - it might be that the clutch is not fully disengaging which could be a simple matter of bleeding the hydraulic circuit (or changing the fluid that it shares with the brakes if its old).

[jamhops]

Have you checked/changed the gear box oil recently? Also - is it difficult to get out of first, or difficult to get into second (if you follow my drift)?

One other thought - it might be that the clutch is not fully disengaging which could be a simple matter of bleeding the hydraulic circuit (or changing the fluid that it shares with the brakes if its old).

Its the getting out of 1st not the getting into 2nd. She had a service so I can only assume that was all done, I know all the dipsticks and levels I did check where filled (to the max or in most casese WAY over the top level) How do i check gearbox oil and the hydraulic circuit?

Oh also may be related (I thought it was normal but cant remember now a days) but I can engage a gear while the car is off (i.e. the engine is not running) and can hear it fall in place. Though I may check that I am not imagining that tomorrow?

Oh and thankyou

[davelowe]

Hmm - it might well be the clutch not disengaging fully. One way to test is to let it drive along at idle in first on a flat space so that the engine isn't really trying to pull the car (difficult to describe). Then tug on the gear stick without using the clutch. It should pop out of gear without any force (as if you are using the clutch in a normal situation). It's one of those things you learn by 'doing'... and I haven't described it very well. You can repeat this test in any gear when the engine is not under load.

[jamhops]

I will try it tomorrow thanks, If I remember right it does it that good or bad? :s

[davelowe]

If the clutch is not disengaging fully, it may simply need bleeding. So if it passes the test - it's potentially good!

[jamhops]

If the clutch is not disengaging fully, it may simply need bleeding. So if it passes the test - it's potentially good!

It has passed the test and it has been fine disengaging recently... so bleeding is the next step or monitor it? lol

[davelowe]

If I remember correctly, bleeding is done by gravity - ie you open the bleed valve (you might have to hunt for that) and let the fluid seep out while keeping the master cylinder (both for brakes and also clutch) topped up. If the fluid looks like treacle it needs replacing (I think it's recommended every 3 years) - it should look more of a 'transparent to light straw' colour. Replacement is done by bleeding the brakes. It is simple.

If it's behaving itself and the fluid looks fine, leave it alone!

[peterabbott33]

I hate to be the one 'reviving' an old thread, but just wanted to say thanks for the advice above. I had the exact same problem, and deduced that the clutch was not fully disengaging. Since the pedal was very high & heavy anyway, I've just had a new clutch & concentric slave fitted, and now the problem is completely gone and Ihave a nice light clutch pedal again its a shame that my gearbox is still notchy but atleast it changes gear when i ask it to!