low revs and poor idle when cold
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- Learner Driver
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Re: low revs and poor idle when cold
Hi,
it started when I had a service.
Changed Spark Plugs, Oil, OIl filter and Air Filter.
Since then when you hit the accelerator when first started it dips and comes back up slowly. I have noticed it happens only when cold.
I have changed the Cam Sensor since this but still the same.
Not sure what else to change/check really.
it started when I had a service.
Changed Spark Plugs, Oil, OIl filter and Air Filter.
Since then when you hit the accelerator when first started it dips and comes back up slowly. I have noticed it happens only when cold.
I have changed the Cam Sensor since this but still the same.
Not sure what else to change/check really.
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Re: low revs and poor idle when cold
As it happened after servicing, then the suspects are the coils and dephaser. If unrelated to the servicing, then the first things to look at are the throttle body and the temperature sensor. My best guess...
AlexB
(no, a different AlexB)
(no, a different AlexB)
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- Learner Driver
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Re: low revs and poor idle when cold
Thanks Alex.
I had my VVT changed 2 years ago with the latest part number so I really dont want it to be that again.
I have checked each coil and the car judders when each one is disconnected so I dont believe it could be that.
I have got some throttle body cleaner so will spray some on.
How can I check the temp sensor?
Thanks
I had my VVT changed 2 years ago with the latest part number so I really dont want it to be that again.
I have checked each coil and the car judders when each one is disconnected so I dont believe it could be that.
I have got some throttle body cleaner so will spray some on.
How can I check the temp sensor?
Thanks
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Re: low revs and poor idle when cold
Hi Simba7,
What oil/filter were used since the dephaser replacement? Could you please recollect the approximate dates and mileage of the services since the dephaser job? Was the dephaser control valve replaced?
The procedures for the throttle body cleaning are in the Technical notes in the sticky thread. This job involves slightly more than just spraying the carb cleaner into the intake. It mainly cures flat spots, which is different from the symptoms you've described. Dirt shows on the OBD as a reduced calculated load at idle.
The temp sensor is checked by looking at the OBD screen, which means getting the OBD reader. Check the live parameters.
What oil/filter were used since the dephaser replacement? Could you please recollect the approximate dates and mileage of the services since the dephaser job? Was the dephaser control valve replaced?
The procedures for the throttle body cleaning are in the Technical notes in the sticky thread. This job involves slightly more than just spraying the carb cleaner into the intake. It mainly cures flat spots, which is different from the symptoms you've described. Dirt shows on the OBD as a reduced calculated load at idle.
The temp sensor is checked by looking at the OBD screen, which means getting the OBD reader. Check the live parameters.
simba7 wrote:Thanks Alex.
I had my VVT changed 2 years ago with the latest part number so I really dont want it to be that again.
I have checked each coil and the car judders when each one is disconnected so I dont believe it could be that.
I have got some throttle body cleaner so will spray some on.
How can I check the temp sensor?
Thanks
AlexB
(no, a different AlexB)
(no, a different AlexB)
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- Learner Driver
- Posts: 67
- Joined: Fri Feb 05, 2010 10:23 pm
- Currently Drives:: Renault Megane 1.6 VVT Dynamique 2004
Re: low revs and poor idle when cold
Hi Alex,
I used Valvoline 5w30 semi synthetic 2 years ago with a Mann Oil Filter.
Only the Dephaser was replaced and everything was cured at the time.
This year I used Valvoline 5w30 Fully Synthetic with a Bosche Oil Filter.
I have an ELM327 that i can plug in to check certain things. Will this do?
Thanks
I used Valvoline 5w30 semi synthetic 2 years ago with a Mann Oil Filter.
Only the Dephaser was replaced and everything was cured at the time.
This year I used Valvoline 5w30 Fully Synthetic with a Bosche Oil Filter.
I have an ELM327 that i can plug in to check certain things. Will this do?
Thanks
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Re: low revs and poor idle when cold
Hi Simba7,
Yes, ELM327 will do. Scanmaster is a good programme that supports everything that OBD offers. If your ELM327 has Bluetooth, then Torque aplication on an Android phone can be used.
Valvoline semi 5w30 oil, on which you did a 2 year extended drain interval, is not ACEA A3 - expect oil related problems, e.g. the VVT system.
Yes, ELM327 will do. Scanmaster is a good programme that supports everything that OBD offers. If your ELM327 has Bluetooth, then Torque aplication on an Android phone can be used.
Valvoline semi 5w30 oil, on which you did a 2 year extended drain interval, is not ACEA A3 - expect oil related problems, e.g. the VVT system.
AlexB
(no, a different AlexB)
(no, a different AlexB)
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- Learner Driver
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Re: low revs and poor idle when cold
Hi Alex,
The Valvoline oil i used was ACEA A5 Rated meaning its A1 and A3 combined.
Please see link https://www.valvolineeurope.com/english/ ... nformation
I will plug it in and see what it says. What values should i be looking at. Revs?
Thanks
The Valvoline oil i used was ACEA A5 Rated meaning its A1 and A3 combined.
Please see link https://www.valvolineeurope.com/english/ ... nformation
I will plug it in and see what it says. What values should i be looking at. Revs?
Thanks
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Re: low revs and poor idle when cold
No, it is not correct. ACEA A3 has high HTHS (more than 3.5), and A5 has low HTHS. Megane's 1.6 engine requires a high performance oil, i.e. ACEA A3.
Furthermore, not any ACEA A3 oil is suitable for 2 year drain intervals. It has to be fully synthetic, i.e. based on PAO/ester, which are 0w30...40 oils.
The synthetic Valvoline 5w30, which you are using today, is ACEA A3, which is adequate. However, MB believe that it is not suitable for long service intervals and give it MB229.3 rating. It is safe to use it for not longer than a year or 9000 miles (whatever comes first). It is not a long-life oil because it is hydrocracked mineral. American companies are allowed to label mineral oil as synthetic following the peculiar incident in court involving Castrol.
Furthermore, not any ACEA A3 oil is suitable for 2 year drain intervals. It has to be fully synthetic, i.e. based on PAO/ester, which are 0w30...40 oils.
The synthetic Valvoline 5w30, which you are using today, is ACEA A3, which is adequate. However, MB believe that it is not suitable for long service intervals and give it MB229.3 rating. It is safe to use it for not longer than a year or 9000 miles (whatever comes first). It is not a long-life oil because it is hydrocracked mineral. American companies are allowed to label mineral oil as synthetic following the peculiar incident in court involving Castrol.
simba7 wrote:Hi Alex,
The Valvoline oil i used was ACEA A5 Rated meaning its A1 and A3 combined.
Please see link https://www.valvolineeurope.com/english/ ... nformation
I will plug it in and see what it says. What values should i be looking at. Revs?
Thanks
AlexB
(no, a different AlexB)
(no, a different AlexB)
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- Learner Driver
- Posts: 67
- Joined: Fri Feb 05, 2010 10:23 pm
- Currently Drives:: Renault Megane 1.6 VVT Dynamique 2004
Re: low revs and poor idle when cold
Hi Alex,
I only went by what the manual suggested.
It said to use A1/B1 so i assumed it was safe and correct for my engine.
Take a look at the below link
https://www.scribd.com/doc/55849776/Mega ... ers-Manual
I only went by what the manual suggested.
It said to use A1/B1 so i assumed it was safe and correct for my engine.
Take a look at the below link
https://www.scribd.com/doc/55849776/Mega ... ers-Manual
Re: low revs and poor idle when cold
We (some?) of us have being following this debate since 2003. Honest John (a misnomer) and the manuals are out of date. There are technical notes and unpublished data (shame on them) that suggest that only fully synthetic oil must be used - and at more frequent drain intervals.
For the record, I used only Mobil 0w-40 in all my French cars (suddenly, and at vast expense at my local dealership). Six months maximum, and it is as black as the proverbial. I advise you follow the most recent advice, and contact Renault customer services - if you have the paperwork.
Put simply, these engines will fail in one form or another without proper oil change intervals and grade. It is common to find this issue, and costly to remedy.
Don't go to a back street garage if your car is <7years old. They will use non-OEM parts, and RCS will not reimburse the costs. Better to contact them first and proceed down the the less expensive route. Bottom line: if the service history is followed and can be proven, as per the manual, then Renault will pay, albeit with a fight.
For the record, I used only Mobil 0w-40 in all my French cars (suddenly, and at vast expense at my local dealership). Six months maximum, and it is as black as the proverbial. I advise you follow the most recent advice, and contact Renault customer services - if you have the paperwork.
Put simply, these engines will fail in one form or another without proper oil change intervals and grade. It is common to find this issue, and costly to remedy.
Don't go to a back street garage if your car is <7years old. They will use non-OEM parts, and RCS will not reimburse the costs. Better to contact them first and proceed down the the less expensive route. Bottom line: if the service history is followed and can be proven, as per the manual, then Renault will pay, albeit with a fight.
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Re: low revs and poor idle when cold
Yes, I agree, you are not wrong. However, I just don't see how a mineral oil can withstand an extended service interval. I also do not understand the point of having an advanced engine with a dephaser, if the maximum performance is limited by A5. All these recommendations are only good to take you through the warranty period.
There is a reason why at a later stage the same Renault released new RN standards, which are as strict as MB approvals. To cut the long story short, use only fully synthetic oils with RN0700 or MB229.5 on the label (they include ACEA A3). Mobil 1 0w40 is one of them. For a slightly higher performance one can choose Motul 8100 X-lite 0W-30 Ester (from opieoils). Change the oil every 9k or 1 year whatever comes first, and always drain it through the sump plug (the popular suction machines leave residue at the bottom of the sump).
There is a reason why at a later stage the same Renault released new RN standards, which are as strict as MB approvals. To cut the long story short, use only fully synthetic oils with RN0700 or MB229.5 on the label (they include ACEA A3). Mobil 1 0w40 is one of them. For a slightly higher performance one can choose Motul 8100 X-lite 0W-30 Ester (from opieoils). Change the oil every 9k or 1 year whatever comes first, and always drain it through the sump plug (the popular suction machines leave residue at the bottom of the sump).
simba7 wrote:Hi Alex,
I only went by what the manual suggested.
It said to use A1/B1 so i assumed it was safe and correct for my engine.
Take a look at the below link
https://www.scribd.com/doc/55849776/Mega ... ers-Manual
AlexB
(no, a different AlexB)
(no, a different AlexB)
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- Learner Driver
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Re: low revs and poor idle when cold
Hi Alex,
In response to your previous reply where you stated to use fully synthetic oil 0w30/40 for a extented drain.
Is it safe to use Valvoline Fully Syn 5w30/40 for an extended drain?
Thanks
In response to your previous reply where you stated to use fully synthetic oil 0w30/40 for a extented drain.
Is it safe to use Valvoline Fully Syn 5w30/40 for an extended drain?
Thanks
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Re: low revs and poor idle when cold
I mistook this oil for MB229.1 upon looking at an obscure web site, was corrected by simba7, thanks, so look at the response below. MSDS still says that this oil is half hydrocracked mineral, half mineral, which makes it at best a semi-synthetic.
If you are after cheap stuff, then this is probably the best value for money at the moment... Quantum Platinum Full Synthetic 5w40, 5L, ACEA:C3, API:SM/CF; VW 502 00, VW 505 00, VW 505 01, BMW LL-04, RN 0700, 0710 -- £25
https://www.camskill.co.uk/m1b0s4393p113 ... L_%28PD%29
Elf Evolution SXR 5W40 5L £28 on Amazon: RN0710, RN0700
Mobil 1 0w40 used to be cheap at COSTCO, checked ages ago though...
If you are after cheap stuff, then this is probably the best value for money at the moment... Quantum Platinum Full Synthetic 5w40, 5L, ACEA:C3, API:SM/CF; VW 502 00, VW 505 00, VW 505 01, BMW LL-04, RN 0700, 0710 -- £25
https://www.camskill.co.uk/m1b0s4393p113 ... L_%28PD%29
Elf Evolution SXR 5W40 5L £28 on Amazon: RN0710, RN0700
Mobil 1 0w40 used to be cheap at COSTCO, checked ages ago though...
Last edited by AlexB on Sun Mar 30, 2014 11:08 am, edited 2 times in total.
AlexB
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(no, a different AlexB)
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Re: low revs and poor idle when cold
Hi Alex,
Sorry I'm not sure which Valvoline oil you are referring to.
The one i am talking about is https://www.valvolineeurope.com/uploadedFiles/5160.pdf which is Valvoline SynPower 5W40
I am sure this is a Fully synthetic oil which is MB229.5 I believe.
Is this not suitable for extended drain?
Sorry I'm not sure which Valvoline oil you are referring to.
The one i am talking about is https://www.valvolineeurope.com/uploadedFiles/5160.pdf which is Valvoline SynPower 5W40
I am sure this is a Fully synthetic oil which is MB229.5 I believe.
Is this not suitable for extended drain?
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Re: low revs and poor idle when cold
Good point... trying to find my source, but don't see it. I made a mistake. Yes, it is MB229.5, as in many sources coming from Google, so it shout be OK. However, their reputation is that they sell cheap mineral oil mostly. Reading the MSDS (safety sheet) for "Synpower™ 5W40 SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL":
HYDROTREATED HEAVY PARAFFINIC BASE OIL
64742-54-7
>=50-<60%
HEAVY PARAFFINIC DISTILLATE
64742-54-7
>=20-<30%
It is semi-mineral, semi hydrocracked mineral. There is nothing about PAO or esters. This is from
https://msds.ashland.com/msds-ext/msdsD ... chHC&id=29
A German site lists a red label bottle (old release?) with the same name and MB229.1 spec. It looks like there were different versions... You are right, most links read MB229.5 and MB229.3, which means "good", and which means I have to apologise.
This is the link to the European Vlavoline, where the specs look OK, 5w40 even has Renault approvals RN0700 and RN0710.
https://www.valvolineeurope.com/english/ ... ower_5w-40
HYDROTREATED HEAVY PARAFFINIC BASE OIL
64742-54-7
>=50-<60%
HEAVY PARAFFINIC DISTILLATE
64742-54-7
>=20-<30%
It is semi-mineral, semi hydrocracked mineral. There is nothing about PAO or esters. This is from
https://msds.ashland.com/msds-ext/msdsD ... chHC&id=29
A German site lists a red label bottle (old release?) with the same name and MB229.1 spec. It looks like there were different versions... You are right, most links read MB229.5 and MB229.3, which means "good", and which means I have to apologise.
This is the link to the European Vlavoline, where the specs look OK, 5w40 even has Renault approvals RN0700 and RN0710.
https://www.valvolineeurope.com/english/ ... ower_5w-40
AlexB
(no, a different AlexB)
(no, a different AlexB)
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