As some of you might have read, the wifes cam belt went on her 1.4.
Looking into it, I think the best, cheapest option would be a replacement engine?
Im planning on doing the swap myself and Im not pushed for time at all.
Just a few questions.
Is it as simple as take out, put new one in?
I will be doing cam belt on new engine too, but will this be possible to do myself without special tools?
Anyone know of anywhere I could source a replacement in the west midlands area?
Has anyone got a guide, or can anyone point me in the right direction for one?
Cheers in advance guys.
Gav
Engine Swap
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Re: Engine Swap
it is quite simple.
best bet is to remove the front panel for better access,
it's really a case of removing battery,tray,ecu,airbox and then the wiring from the engine
remember to label the plugs as even thou most only fit one sensor it makes it a lot quicker then trial and error.
next dissconnect the coolant pipes to the bulkhead and the gearbox linkage.
in our work we often remove the engine with the front subframe and suspension still connected
remember to dissconnect the exhaust and the steering rack inside the car by the floor. and the strut tops from there turrets
brake pipes get split at the flexi section behind the wheel.
this is presuming that the radiators are already out along with the front panel
jack the car up onto axle stands as high as possible and then put jack in middle of subframe or on the sump to just take the weight and remove subframe retaining bolts
lower engine with the jack and check suspension is dropping clear of inner wings and then you should be able to pull the whole lot forward out of the car.
seperate engine from gearbox and swop for new engine and carry out any services you wish before putting it back in reverse order.
timing belt can be done with out any special tools but replace tensioner.
engine can be split from gearbox and removed in the engine bay put it's very hard work and requires a engine crane and a lot of wiggle and pulling and possible damage to something.
hope this helps.
best bet is to remove the front panel for better access,
it's really a case of removing battery,tray,ecu,airbox and then the wiring from the engine
remember to label the plugs as even thou most only fit one sensor it makes it a lot quicker then trial and error.
next dissconnect the coolant pipes to the bulkhead and the gearbox linkage.
in our work we often remove the engine with the front subframe and suspension still connected
remember to dissconnect the exhaust and the steering rack inside the car by the floor. and the strut tops from there turrets
brake pipes get split at the flexi section behind the wheel.
this is presuming that the radiators are already out along with the front panel
jack the car up onto axle stands as high as possible and then put jack in middle of subframe or on the sump to just take the weight and remove subframe retaining bolts
lower engine with the jack and check suspension is dropping clear of inner wings and then you should be able to pull the whole lot forward out of the car.
seperate engine from gearbox and swop for new engine and carry out any services you wish before putting it back in reverse order.
timing belt can be done with out any special tools but replace tensioner.
engine can be split from gearbox and removed in the engine bay put it's very hard work and requires a engine crane and a lot of wiggle and pulling and possible damage to something.
hope this helps.
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Re: Engine Swap
before doing the above why don't you take the head off as often the bottem end is fine with maybe just a dent in the top of a piston which won't matter to much. alot cheaper and easier to replace a cyclinder head and at least you know what state the engine was in before the belt snapped as a second hand engine is a unknown.
thats the way i would go first as the head is made of alloy where the bores are steel lined and harder so a dropped valve with any luck has just been crushed up into the softer cyclinder head
thats the way i would go first as the head is made of alloy where the bores are steel lined and harder so a dropped valve with any luck has just been crushed up into the softer cyclinder head
Re: Engine Swap
Great info guys.
Im going to start stripping the head off Monday night and asses the damage from there.
Like you say, maybe there isn't much damage, fingers crossed.
I will keep my progress posted up here, as I'm a complete novice I will be needing advice lol.
Cheers guys.
Im going to start stripping the head off Monday night and asses the damage from there.
Like you say, maybe there isn't much damage, fingers crossed.
I will keep my progress posted up here, as I'm a complete novice I will be needing advice lol.
Cheers guys.
Re: Engine Swap
If I go for the engine swap, will I need the ECU from the new engine or will mine work?
Or will I have to get mine programmed to the new engine?
Or will I have to get mine programmed to the new engine?
Re: Engine Swap
Right, got most of the stuff out I need to get out.
Disconnected all plugs, cables and live/earth straps.
Can someone please tell me how to disconnect the gear linkages the right way and also the drive shafts?
Am I going to get coverers in oil when I do the driveshafts?
Also would it be a good idea to drain the oil from the engine?
Again thanks guys...and a little pic..
Disconnected all plugs, cables and live/earth straps.
Can someone please tell me how to disconnect the gear linkages the right way and also the drive shafts?
Am I going to get coverers in oil when I do the driveshafts?
Also would it be a good idea to drain the oil from the engine?
Again thanks guys...and a little pic..
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Re: Engine Swap
the drive shafts just pull out the diff but you will need to at least remove the lower arm or strut to allow you to pull the hubs outwards to allow the shafts the movement needed to come out the diff,
if the engine you are fitting is the same model then your old ecu will work fine.
i would leave the oil in the old engine
can't remember howto do the linkage but do it on the gearbox end not the stick.
should just be a plastic clip that pops outwards and then just pull the cable of. it's a ball and socket fitment
if the engine you are fitting is the same model then your old ecu will work fine.
i would leave the oil in the old engine
can't remember howto do the linkage but do it on the gearbox end not the stick.
should just be a plastic clip that pops outwards and then just pull the cable of. it's a ball and socket fitment
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Re: Engine Swap
Now theres a project Gav!
It would only do it justice to put a 225 engine in it.
P
It would only do it justice to put a 225 engine in it.
P
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