Window Regulator Cables
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- davidloveshismeg
- Passed Theory
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 1:51 pm
- Location: Whitehead NI
Window Regulator Cables
Hey All.
Had an issue this week regarding my drivers side window regulator where it just didnt work, was told that a wee hammer tap could possibly sort the problem so off came the door card and I got to the motor, gave it a tap and hey presto it began to work, until......
The window would only move up or down in short bursts and:
Both the cables from the motor crunched and now dont look so good meaning I will have to replace
So here are my questions:
1) I assume I did something to allow the cable to crunch, I was pretty careful but the plastic with attatched spring came away from the motor when running up and down.
2) The cable running from the motor to the furthest part of the door (next to the lock etc) this popped out of place when replacing the door panel. I can see a grove and slot where the end of the cable fits in but it is at the bottom of the white block holding the window on the runner.I was wondering if this has to fit around a pully or something simular before attatching to to the block?
Hope all that jibberish makes sense to someone!
Thanks
Dave
Had an issue this week regarding my drivers side window regulator where it just didnt work, was told that a wee hammer tap could possibly sort the problem so off came the door card and I got to the motor, gave it a tap and hey presto it began to work, until......
The window would only move up or down in short bursts and:
Both the cables from the motor crunched and now dont look so good meaning I will have to replace
So here are my questions:
1) I assume I did something to allow the cable to crunch, I was pretty careful but the plastic with attatched spring came away from the motor when running up and down.
2) The cable running from the motor to the furthest part of the door (next to the lock etc) this popped out of place when replacing the door panel. I can see a grove and slot where the end of the cable fits in but it is at the bottom of the white block holding the window on the runner.I was wondering if this has to fit around a pully or something simular before attatching to to the block?
Hope all that jibberish makes sense to someone!
Thanks
Dave
-
- F1 Driver
- Posts: 1957
- Joined: Sat Aug 23, 2008 5:22 pm
- Currently Drives:: Megane Saloon 2.0 VVT Dynamique
- Location: Belfast, Northern Ireland
- Contact:
Re: Window Regulator Cables
Just buy a repair kit from ebay.
Becareful when dismantling the regulator to fit the new cable as its 'spring loaded' (parts will fly where you will never find them if your not careful!)
Becareful when dismantling the regulator to fit the new cable as its 'spring loaded' (parts will fly where you will never find them if your not careful!)
- davidloveshismeg
- Passed Theory
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 1:51 pm
- Location: Whitehead NI
Re: Window Regulator Cables
Ah fantastic!
Ordered and all, you just saved me a few bob! Thanks alot!!
Cheers
Dave
Ordered and all, you just saved me a few bob! Thanks alot!!
Cheers
Dave
- davidloveshismeg
- Passed Theory
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 1:51 pm
- Location: Whitehead NI
Re: Window Regulator Cables
Just realised wrong fitment! refunded!
Cant seem to find a repair kit anywhere for a 3 door model!!?? Do you know where I could get one?
Thanks
Dave
Cant seem to find a repair kit anywhere for a 3 door model!!?? Do you know where I could get one?
Thanks
Dave
-
- F1 Driver
- Posts: 1957
- Joined: Sat Aug 23, 2008 5:22 pm
- Currently Drives:: Megane Saloon 2.0 VVT Dynamique
- Location: Belfast, Northern Ireland
- Contact:
Re: Window Regulator Cables
Its eactly the same as in the 5 door.
You can also buy whats in the 'kit' from any hardware store.
You can also buy whats in the 'kit' from any hardware store.
- davidloveshismeg
- Passed Theory
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 1:51 pm
- Location: Whitehead NI
Re: Window Regulator Cables
Hi Again,
I thought I had found a 3 door fitment, was sent out and turns out to be wrong and the guy admitted his mistake, the length of the cable sheathing is much shorter than the origional meaning that it does not fit snug between the motor and the top of the regulator and would pop of the pulley.
Are you sure the two are the same??
Thanks!
David
I thought I had found a 3 door fitment, was sent out and turns out to be wrong and the guy admitted his mistake, the length of the cable sheathing is much shorter than the origional meaning that it does not fit snug between the motor and the top of the regulator and would pop of the pulley.
Are you sure the two are the same??
Thanks!
David
-
- F1 Driver
- Posts: 1957
- Joined: Sat Aug 23, 2008 5:22 pm
- Currently Drives:: Megane Saloon 2.0 VVT Dynamique
- Location: Belfast, Northern Ireland
- Contact:
Re: Window Regulator Cables
Positive,
I have the 4 door . Mine went a few months back. I exchanged the rear cable to front untill i had time to find fit replacment.
I have the 4 door . Mine went a few months back. I exchanged the rear cable to front untill i had time to find fit replacment.
Re: Window Regulator Cables
All this info would make so much more sense with a picture....has anyone ever taken pics when they are doing the repair ????
Re: Window Regulator Cables
Anyone got any info on this method...posted by a guy on another forum...........
"Friends at work have advised me of a couple of auto electric firms who can do a permanent fix for this problem which involves replacing the window wiring and using a relay box, you no longer have the one-touch open/close function but this is a small price to pay in able to have windows that actually open and close. Cost £80 per window, RESULT!!!!"
"Friends at work have advised me of a couple of auto electric firms who can do a permanent fix for this problem which involves replacing the window wiring and using a relay box, you no longer have the one-touch open/close function but this is a small price to pay in able to have windows that actually open and close. Cost £80 per window, RESULT!!!!"
-
- Driving Legend
- Posts: 4312
- Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2005 8:17 pm
- Currently Drives:: Renaultsport R.S.250 Cup
Re: Window Regulator Cables
If one chooses the preventive maintenance route, then why not to open the door panel and protect the regulator connector from moisture? There is no need to cripple the car. These "a couple of auto electric firms" look like companies which prey on incompetence of general public.
Clyde wrote:Anyone got any info on this method...posted by a guy on another forum...........
"Friends at work have advised me of a couple of auto electric firms who can do a permanent fix for this problem which involves replacing the window wiring and using a relay box, you no longer have the one-touch open/close function but this is a small price to pay in able to have windows that actually open and close. Cost £80 per window, RESULT!!!!"
AlexB
(no, a different AlexB)
(no, a different AlexB)
Re: Window Regulator Cables
AlexB wrote:If one chooses the preventive maintenance route, then why not to open the door panel and protect the regulator connector from moisture? There is no need to cripple the car. These "a couple of auto electric firms" look like companies which prey on incompetence of general public.Clyde wrote:Anyone got any info on this method...posted by a guy on another forum...........
"Friends at work have advised me of a couple of auto electric firms who can do a permanent fix for this problem which involves replacing the window wiring and using a relay box, you no longer have the one-touch open/close function but this is a small price to pay in able to have windows that actually open and close. Cost £80 per window, RESULT!!!!"
Cheers Alex....what would you suggest to be the best way to "protect the regulator connector from moisture" ???...ive heard a covering of grease and a wrap of cling film is suitable ???...what do you reckon...and one more small question...sillicone or non sillicone based grease ?????????
-
- Driving Legend
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Re: Window Regulator Cables
Clyde,
When I opened the connector, it looked pretty much watertight. Only one high current pin was damaged/corroded and the others were shiny. My impression was that this pin received mostly thermal damage, and corrosion was secondary. Well, once corrosion started the thermal damage accelerated... Therefore, the solution should include improving the contact to reduce the temperature. I would imagine the peak current through this contact can be as high as 20A.
I repaired it by cleaning it first (using a needle file), then coated in a conductive paint made with silver. The same was done to the female part of the connector. I also inserted bits of thin wire into the female part to make it tighter. Then, I made a "skirt" by wrapping some tape around the connector on the regulator side, keeping the bottom side open. This is to guide the water away from the connector. It is dangerous to create pockets in the wrapping, as water may become trapped there. Everything was sprayed with silicone oil spray, and the seals were lubricated with silicone grease.
I did not touch the other regulators. They are not used much, hence don't fail.
When I opened the connector, it looked pretty much watertight. Only one high current pin was damaged/corroded and the others were shiny. My impression was that this pin received mostly thermal damage, and corrosion was secondary. Well, once corrosion started the thermal damage accelerated... Therefore, the solution should include improving the contact to reduce the temperature. I would imagine the peak current through this contact can be as high as 20A.
I repaired it by cleaning it first (using a needle file), then coated in a conductive paint made with silver. The same was done to the female part of the connector. I also inserted bits of thin wire into the female part to make it tighter. Then, I made a "skirt" by wrapping some tape around the connector on the regulator side, keeping the bottom side open. This is to guide the water away from the connector. It is dangerous to create pockets in the wrapping, as water may become trapped there. Everything was sprayed with silicone oil spray, and the seals were lubricated with silicone grease.
I did not touch the other regulators. They are not used much, hence don't fail.
AlexB
(no, a different AlexB)
(no, a different AlexB)
Re: Window Regulator Cables
AlexB wrote:Clyde,
When I opened the connector, it looked pretty much watertight. Only one high current pin was damaged/corroded and the others were shiny. My impression was that this pin received mostly thermal damage, and corrosion was secondary. Well, once corrosion started the thermal damage accelerated... Therefore, the solution should include improving the contact to reduce the temperature. I would imagine the peak current through this contact can be as high as 20A.
I repaired it by cleaning it first (using a needle file), then coated in a conductive paint made with silver. The same was done to the female part of the connector. I also inserted bits of thin wire into the female part to make it tighter. Then, I made a "skirt" by wrapping some tape around the connector on the regulator side, keeping the bottom side open. This is to guide the water away from the connector. It is dangerous to create pockets in the wrapping, as water may become trapped there. Everything was sprayed with silicone oil spray, and the seals were lubricated with silicone grease.
I did not touch the other regulators. They are not used much, hence don't fail.
GREAT INFO ALEX.....MUCH APPRECIATED.....
- nejkov
- Learner Driver
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Sat Jun 06, 2009 7:28 pm
- Currently Drives:: Renault Mégane II 1.6i 16V VVT Privilège Luxe Hatchback 5dr Ottoman Blue '04
- Location: Skopje, Macedonia
Re: Window Regulator Cables
I have problem with window regulator. The problem is that sometimes it do open window without my command, sometimes it do not open with my command and sometimes it function properly.
Can anyone help me with this issue?
Thank you.
Can anyone help me with this issue?
Thank you.
Renault Mégane II 1.6i 16V VVT Privilège Luxe Hatchback 5dr Ottoman Blue '04
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