Some advice for a couple of issues...

[alfy_ross]

Hi there

I have a couple of queries that need answering about my Megane II 1.9dci 120, 2004'.....

It has done 77,500, I drive around 27000 miles a year, and it is used for work, mainly motorways. I have had it for 1 year, and it has full service history....

- All power comes between 1700 - 2000 rpm....there is nothing at all after 2000rpm. Is this the same for all meganes??? When the power is there, it is quick, but it hardly lasts and just runs out of puff...

- What milege does the - cambelt need changing??
- Gear box and clutch need changing??

- What is the best oil to use with these engines??

-Are these cars good for upto around 150,000 miles,????.... as that is when I plan to change it, and that will only be a couple of years as I do so many miles....I do and will continue to fully service it on time and look after it, I just wanted othere peoples views if they have used there Megane for very high mileage, and if they found it to be ok, or any problems?????

Sorry about all the questions, but I dont have the service book, and would really appreciate som e answers!!

Many thanks - Ross

[anth_dci]

cambelt should be done at 72000 or 5 years whichever comes first.

my 1.9dci gives at kick at about 2300rpm and revs nicely upto 4000-4500rpm maybes more but the power tails off.

i use castrol edge 0w30 oil and change every 8000-9000miles.

Clutch should last to over 100000 youll feel it slipping when its ready to change. You shouldn't need to change the gearbox.

if you change the oil regularly theres no reason the car wont go on until 150000miles.

[AlexB]

Hi Ross,

With this engine the "all power" is supposed to come at 2000-4500. There might be something wrong with your engine (inc. turbo!). I suggest to start with checking the turbocharger linkage. It should be movable by hand when the engine is stopped. It should also move soon after the engine is started. Then read the fault codes and record the engine parameters when driving by using ELM327 adapter (£30 on ebay) or similar.

Cambelt is normally changed at 72000 miles or 5 years.

Gearbox and clutch are changed only if they fail. Normally they live much longer. One may consider changing the gear oil -- I use Silkolene Syn3 75-90 from opieoils (ask Oilman in this forum for options).

Best oils for F9Q-800 are Mobil 1 0w40, Shell Helix Ultra 5w40, Motul 8100 XClean 5w40, some Elf stuff not available in the UK and any oil having MB229.5 AND 0-5w40 on the label. Check opieoils web site and your local Shell, Halfords or Tesco (they sell Mobil). Use the OEM oil filter!

I can't comment on the mileage above yours. My car is extremely reliable and very well suited for DIY servicing. However, these cars are frequently neglected...

[AlexB]

anth_dci,

The manual specifically forbids using Xw30 oils. So, it is good to know that this engine can actually tolerate thinner oils.

[jay the spark]

hi all dont no if this is a silly question or not but how do u check/top up the gearbox oil ?
the gearbox blew up in my ibiza because the was no oil in it i dont want the same thing to happen to my megane
its a 2006 phase 1 1.6 vvt
cheers all jay

[AlexB]

There are two plugs -- to drain and to fill up. They are shown in the manual (PDF files) in our Links. For filling up you'll need to attach a tube of some sort to the oil bottle and feed it through the fill opening on the side of the box. Keep filling up until the oil starts coming out. In the manual you'll find the capacity figure for your box and torque values for the plugs.

Checking oil is difficult. Remove the plug on the side of the box and somehow manage to sense the level, which should be just under the hole.

[busternlouie]

Checking oil is difficult. Remove the plug on the side of the box and somehow manage to sense the level, which should be just under the hole.

Poke the bent part of an allen key into the hole and you should be able to judge the level.

[anth_dci]

anth_dci,

The manual specifically forbids using Xw30 oils. So, it is good to know that this engine can actually tolerate thinner oils.

does it? I didnt see that anywhere in my manual. I wonder why? I am right in thinking that the first number is the consistency when warm and the 2nd is when cold?

my 1.9dci has been running this oil for nearly 6000miles and i've not had any troubles. Got me worrying now.

EDIT: according to the manual for the phase 2 DCi with the particle filter that i downloaded from here it says to use "ELF SOLARIS RNX 5W-30" The phase 1 engine like mine is the same minus the filter i believe so the oil should work fine in both.

[AlexB]

It is in your service book (read footnotes) and in one of Technical notes regarding oils.

1.9dci with FAP engine is slightly different if you look at where the turbo is located. I don't know why they specify a thinner oils for it. Probably because the post-treatment system requires a much better oil, which will do the job even if thinner. Another option is that there exist no low SAPS oils of Xw40 grade.

Look at the new Renault oil specs in our Links. our engines require RN0710, which is 0-5w40. A thinner oil offers less protection at low revs and under high torque -- this is why last time I chose Mobil 1 0w40.

[anth_dci]

so it does, guess ill be doing an oil change this weekend.

[AlexB]

anth_dci,

Castrol Edge 0w30 is ACEA A3/B4, which means it is sufficiently thick at high temperatures (HTHS>3.5). At 100C it is only 8% thinner than Xw40 and it is much better when cold. It is also MB229.5, which means that it is a high quality proper synthetic. Most 5w40 oils are hydrocracked mineral (fake synthetics) and they shear to Xw30 anyway after a couple of weeks. So, the one you have might be reasonably safe, unless you plan to tow a caravan or a boat...

[anth_dci]

unless you plan to tow a caravan or a boat...

i dont tow anything, my car gets used for the 70mile round trip i having to and from work, so 90% of my driving is dual carrageway sitting at 60 in 6th. i knew edge was good oil thats why i went for it. i think ill do some more reading before i decide what to do.

[essexpunx]

anth_dci,

The manual specifically forbids using Xw30 oils. So, it is good to know that this engine can actually tolerate thinner oils.

does it? I didnt see that anywhere in my manual. I wonder why? I am right in thinking that the first number is the consistency when warm and the 2nd is when cold?

my 1.9dci has been running this oil for nearly 6000miles and i've not had any troubles. Got me worrying now.

EDIT: according to the manual for the phase 2 DCi with the particle filter that i downloaded from here it says to use "ELF SOLARIS RNX 5W-30" The phase 1 engine like mine is the same minus the filter i believe so the oil should work fine in both.

The numbers for oil mean, eg: 5W40, W stands for winter so it acts as a thin oil ie 5 weight when its cold and 40 is the hot performance hence the term multigrade, in the dim and distant past you would change from a thin oil in winter to a thicker oil in the summer.

[AlexB]

anth_dci,
An oil is characterised with several parameters. The only parameter which causes doubts is viscosity at 100C, everything else is top notch (MB229.5 tests, group 4 basestock). At lower temperatures and under HTHS (high temp. high shear) conditions this oil is suitable. It is all about 8-10% viscosity difference at 100C. Read the datasheets, if you want to double check it. 10% in my view is not a lot and might be well within tolerance range. This is different from what the manual says, so it is your call. In a similar situation I chose Mobil 1 0w40, which is also MB229.5 and which is more tolerant to water/acid contamination (TBN parmeter).