Screaming Turbo Problem

[gavnaysh]

sfurber- no it doesnt mate its a 1.6 nonturbo, does teh scream sound like a screach? normally its belts slipping which screach then go away up the revs or after a while of driving? also does the screach change tone when you move the steering as its doing it? if so its a belt. if not id be checking oil, water etc and if still nothing a miss get it checked over or give us more idea of noise. if its none of the above try get a video of the noise up

[sunderland11]

Hi all,
A friend of mine has this problem with his Laguna. It was the turbo ready to blow up. If the turbo screams and the endine revs fast you may not be able to switch the engine off with the button, this is when the turbo will blow up by drawing oil into the system. The only way to stop the engine is to stall the car.

He was advised to change the cooler at the same time as the turbo because if the turbo had been damaged and any small fragments had entered the cooler when the engine is running the fragment may be drawn through the system and smash a blade of the new turbo fan. The cost of a new cooler is small and worth doing at the same time as the turbo.

Pete

[Sfurber123]

Gavnaysh - Thanks very much for your reply.

I suppose it is a bit of a screach, its hard to explain really, almost like a loud hissing noise like air escaping or when you drive through a puddle fast?

It does sound like it could be a belt slipping, as it happens about 3000rpm but as you go past that the noise then dissapears like you said, i haven't yet tried moving the steering wheel although i will have a go and see what happens.

I tried to check the oil but when lifting the bonnet i couldn't see a way of doing it, couldn't see a dip stick or anything? when you start the car it says 'oil level ok' but surely thats not the only way of checking it?

If it is a slipping belt then do you know what belt it could be and if it will be a major problem?

Many thanks again

Sam

x

[gavnaysh]

normally it'l just be alternator belt or something, nothing major or to worry about,the cambelt doesnt slip so wouldnt wory about that one!! you can normally tighten it up with a spanner and a pry bar. best get someone who knows what they are doing to have a quick look, only takes 5mins if its accessable. or you can put wd40 on it to take out the moisture which should stop it. dont soak it too much though lol! should be a dipstick somewhere, cant remember myself but id have thought so! but if it says ok 99% of the time it will be. also if you got someone who knows what they are looking at get them to check the air inlet pipes havent split or come off. let me know how you get on.

[Sfurber123]

Cheers again Gavnaysh

Think i'm going to look at it at the weekend as i'll need my dad to help as i'm rubbish with cars. I'll let you know.

Sam

[Renaultmechanic]

My first post so please understand I'm not a rev head at all and am very upset!!!!

My turbo was making a horrible noise and it got worse. A friend said he had this problem with his car and it blew the engine up, so I thought before this happened I would get it to the garage. I arranged with the garage for me to take it to him that evening. Then something started nagging me in my brain and decided to get the AA out. I moved the car in my work car park so the AA man could get to the car easily, and my car started to smoke badly. The AA man took one look and said turbo had gone and to get the car recovered. I did this and advised my garage of what had happened so far.

Well I left the car in the garage, and (have been told they pushed it into the garage) and said whilst they had it to do the timing belt as the car was on 71000miles. Plus to change the oil and filters.

I called the garage a few days later to be told that the car had the new turbo on it, BUT the engine had gone into over reving, and reved upto the rev limiter.
This very much concerned me but was not aware of the possible engine damage that is very likely to have been caused at this point. The garage told me they took the car to an auto electricians and got the trip comp reset and this sorted out the problem. (not a word again about damage) I don't know how they got the car to an auto electrician or if they came to the car. Again possible moving the car. The garage then carried on with the timing belt, I called and was told to come and collect the car the next day. I have also been told at some point the took the car out for a 2 mile run!



The next day I got a call 2 hours before going to collect it to be told the engine was knackered, and the pistons and seals in 3 & 4 were knackered.

One of my main questions, and it is a long way around it I know, is, is it possible to move a renault megane II with key recognition. As the steering lock comes on and I'm not aware of how to take the lock off without starting the car.

Could it be that the garage caused the damage? I feel like I'm having the wool pulled over my eyes for their negligence or is it me?

I know this is a very old post but, i thought i'd throw in my opinion. The fact that it overrevved is a mechanical fault caused by oil being drawn into the injection system, How it gets into the injection system is because the seals on the turbo have gone and allowed oil to get into the intercooler. i reckon once they have fitted the new turbo they have not cleaned out the intercooler and therefore once the new turbo was put in it sucked all the oil from the intercooler into the cylinders and caused it ro run hyrdraulically on the oil and they did not realise to stall it to stop the engine wrecking itself, sounds to me like a conrod has been bent or the pistons have become holed due to amount of oil in the cylinder. More than likely their negligence

[gavnaysh]

did you have any luck with it sam??

[nathan black]

hi there the problem where the car over revs its self with no accelerator is known as TURBO FIRE this is very uncommon but seems very common on the megane. the cause ia as the oil seels go in the turbo oil is fed into the inlet side of the turbo because it is span so fast in the turbo it vaporises and is injected into the engine, the engine simply runs of the vaporised engine oil like diesel. when no accelerator is pressed barly any diesel is getting to the engine but as the sump oil increses the revs of the car it also increases the diesel injected into the system and this is a continious cycle until it hits the rev limiter, the car will run on the limiter until no more oil is present in the sump cauising exstensive damage. the stop button will not do anything the only way to stop it is to stall the car. warning do not atempt to block the air pipes with bare flesh to stop the engine if this happens as it is highly dangerous.

[onlydiesels]

partially correct but..... if the acc. pedal is`nt pressed,the amount of diesel injected won`t increase cos the throttle potentiometer is telling the ecu that the engine is on idle (if you have`nt managed to turn it off yet!) so when this happens,the majority of the `fuel ' is engine oil. and it is`nt uncommon on other vehicles,we`ve had a few recently that have done this (VM CHRYSLER engines) and each once had previous issues (which were unattended) so maybe this occurance is a last resort. some are still being investigated . also it has been known that when trying to stall the engine,the clutch assy/flywheel can be destroyed (dependant on rpm/flywheel/clutch condition)

ps the engine rev limiter in this instance is non existant,due to the fact that the limiter `limits` the amount of diesel....but we`re not running on diesel now are we !