2006 1.5 dci camblet advice & torque wench settings

[Dodge76]

Hi all, my first post hope someone can help with this.

I’m planning on doing the cambelt this weekend (if the rain holds off lol) I’ve got a couple of questions I hope someone could answer. My car is a 2006 1.5 dci the 106bhp version.

First question, I’ve just had a quick look (it was quick it started raining) for the plug hole for the tdc tool. I know it’s on the front gearbox end of the engine but I couldn’t see it from above. Is it behind the starter motor, accessed from below or am I going blind?

Second question, does anyone know the correct torque wrench settings for the tensioner, waterpump and crank pulley? I’ve done a little searching the internet and keep reading slightly different torques. It would be great if someone could give me me the definitive torques. With the floating crank sprocket I really don’t want that slipping.

[joe12]

You may have completed the job by now but anyway...

Search Google for "Megane 1.5 dci timing belt" and you will find installation guides that show the torque settings, I would just read a few and see what setting are the most common and go with those.
There are also YouTube videos of the job, maybe not on a Megane but they will give you an idea of the job.



Cheers.

[Dodge76]

Thanks for the reply joe. Also a quick update for anyone looking to do the cambelt on a 1.5 106bhp.

Firstly the tdc whole is behind the starter motor, which is a little tricky to get out. I unplugged the loom around it 3 connections red on above the starter motor (fuel rail pressure sensor), and the 2 Black oil sensors one below the starter motor and one under the oil filter. It still put up a fight but a twist & wiggle got it out.

Next, most guides I read mention the fuel pump position sensor on the cambelt cover. Mine didn’t have this.

For the crank pulley, mine was actually keyed which made life a little easier. Removal, I did it with a main electric impact wench, which spun it off in seconds. I had the m14 bolt which most guides say stage 1 120nm followed by 100 degrees +- 15 degrees. I managed 120nm but no way could I get 100 degrees with a 1m breaker bar I could only get around 80 degrees.

On first inspection the old belt didn’t look in that bad a condition. But it had streatched to the point that the tensioner arrow had moved well out of the cut out. The belt was that loose, with the tdc pin in I could still move the cam enough to stop the cam locking pin going in. When I removed the tensioner it fell apart in my hands. The new belt had 4 timing lines one for the cam, one for the pump. The other 2 seemed to line up on the crank sprocket one lined up with a mark on the right of the sprocket the other at the bottom of the sprocket dead centre.

The water pump seemed to be the original Renault one. Looking at the service history for the car it had the cambelt last done in 2011 at 33k miles. (The car is a 2006 model) who ever owned the car back then was charged for a waterpump that was never changed. The one I took out had a manufacturing date of jan 2006.

Even though the car has done just 73k, I wanted to get the cambelt done as 7 years is well outside recommended time. With such a streatched belt it just goes to show why the time limit is just as important as the mileage limit.

[joe12]

Good to hear that you got it sorted.

Timing belts tend to give a little with use but they don't really stretch, I would guess that it wasn't tensioned correctly when it was originally fitted.




Cheers.