Bleeding Brakes !!!!!
Posted: Sun May 06, 2018 6:31 pm
OK, my mot was one blown brake pipe, 2 rear shockers and a steering rack gaiter, changed the brake pipe, front to rear and the flexi plus the specialist renault one that goes from the flexi to the caliper. Started to bleed the brakes on the o/s/r and fluid still leaking, had already replaced the n/s/f caliper as the original one had a seized bleed nipple so i could bleed the opposite. So this weekend I fitted another brake pipe, flexi hose and the renault pipe that goes across the subframe, also had to put a caliper on the n/s/r as that nipple was seized as well.Not too bad a job and started to bleed again, went through about a litre of fluid and using a one man bleeder, thought i had a reasonable pedal and then put the wheels on, started the engine, no pedal.
At this point im too tired, achey and past caring, not seen any air in the one man bleeder, Guess im gonna leave it a few days, get another litre of fluid for my next day off on friday, have jammed a sweeping brush between the clutch pedal and brake pedal to jam the brake pedal down. Sounds weird but use this technique on motor bikes ( tie the brake lever back to the handlebar with an aerolastic) and if left overnight usually have a reasonable lever travel.
Anybody else had this problem ? If anyone needs a n/s/f caliper or n/s/r caliper I have both and managed to remove the bleed nipples, also have the pad carriers for both.
By the way watched a you tube video on changing the rear shockers, they make it look so easy ! Now i have 3 favourite tools, big hammer, blow torch and angle grinder, didnt bother with one and two, went straight for the angle grinder and cut the bottem bolt off, even an electic impact socket wasnt shifting 10 years of rust and captive bolt went live. Tricky lining up the top mount if youve jacked the car up using jacking point, tip is that you dont need the wheel off to change the shocker, just cut the bolt by cutting throuogh the nut and then you can jack up the sub frame.
At this point im too tired, achey and past caring, not seen any air in the one man bleeder, Guess im gonna leave it a few days, get another litre of fluid for my next day off on friday, have jammed a sweeping brush between the clutch pedal and brake pedal to jam the brake pedal down. Sounds weird but use this technique on motor bikes ( tie the brake lever back to the handlebar with an aerolastic) and if left overnight usually have a reasonable lever travel.
Anybody else had this problem ? If anyone needs a n/s/f caliper or n/s/r caliper I have both and managed to remove the bleed nipples, also have the pad carriers for both.
By the way watched a you tube video on changing the rear shockers, they make it look so easy ! Now i have 3 favourite tools, big hammer, blow torch and angle grinder, didnt bother with one and two, went straight for the angle grinder and cut the bottem bolt off, even an electic impact socket wasnt shifting 10 years of rust and captive bolt went live. Tricky lining up the top mount if youve jacked the car up using jacking point, tip is that you dont need the wheel off to change the shocker, just cut the bolt by cutting throuogh the nut and then you can jack up the sub frame.