The bumper's held on with only two screws each side under the wheel arch. Under the bonnet take the plastic covers off around the front and you'll see more clips holding the top of the bumper to the car. Take these out and it'll come off (there maybe more clips underneath but mine were missing).
Once the bumpers off each headlight has three screws holding it on.

It seems a bit of hassle this way but I will definitely be doing this way again as I just can't change bulbs through that little hatch under the wheel arch
