The Mégane II Owners' Club

Thinking about putting a blanking plate where my egr valve is, has anyone done this before mines 2005

not so fast..you have to fool the system as the EGR valve as a feedback transducer

cheers

Did you try this in the end?

Pretty sure my EGR valve is playing up so was considering blanking it off rather than replacing.

Just detach the solenoid from the valve and hang the former on the wall, the firewall, and keep the wires connected. On the other hand, if you go so far, then you can just clean it...

Hi Alex,

I wouldn't want to black the EGR long term, just wanted to do so temporarily to see if this made any difference as I've already cleaned it thoroughly 2 weeks ago. Don't particuarly want to buy a new one only to find it makes no difference to my main problem - car shaking a bit too much when idling after a long run. I had this last year and found cleaning the very dirty EGR (and pipe leading to EGR from inlet pipes) resolved the issue. This time the EGR was much cleaner - mainly sooty.

For the price I paid I'm quite happy the car has done 14k with no repairs needed. I took your advice from a yearish ago and now change the oil every 6k using Mobil diesel and Renault filters. May be too late to save the car long term but could get me another year or so!

Cheers,

H

My solution is even easier to implement if you have already cleaned the EGR valve. This is unless you didn't separate the valve from the solenoid in the course of cleaning, which wouldn't actually count as cleaning...

My solution involves a piece of string to hung the solenoid plus a few minutes labour.

i agree with Alex...its in fact a very good idea and it works...

Egr valves have 6 terminals only 5 of these are used 1-2 4 -5 -6 no 3 is not used If egr plug is disconnected at ignition on terminal 1 should have a 12v feed terminal 2 should have a 5v feed. Terminals 2 & 4 should show a 5v feed. Resistance between 2 & 4 ignition off 2385 ohms Resistance between 2 & 6 ignition off 2768 ohms Resistance between 1 & 5 ignition off approx. 8 ohms. To check if your egr is functioning properly if you back probe terminal 6 the return signal wire to the ecu at key on this should show approx. 1 v engine idling approx. 1.6v's. If still encountering problems the wiring from egr plug to the corresponding ecupin no's needs to be checked out Regards Mickeybo

Alex, really! Of course I took the whole EGR valve out..I'm not that daft! ;O I've even carried out some of the electrical tests suggested and used a spare battery to show it opening and closing correctly which it appears to be. What I haven't checked is whether it works correctly on the car with the engine running. I will try the 'hang it off a piece of string idea' as it is very simple (as most of the best ideas are).

Just as a matter of interest I would like to know what kind of checks you have done to your egr valve as these egr valves are position sensors

Taffyhl,

I'm teasing you, of course you're not!

Just to make it clear... did you separate the EGR valve in halves? One is the actual valve, and the other is the solenoid. Soot accumulates in the small space between them.

I came up with the string idea after fighting this valve and then the steering lock. They, however, came back to life, so I didn't use the string on them.

No offence taken Alex (and my wife would happily point out a number of daft things I have done!)

Since I first split the valve and solenoid (to allow soaking of the valve without damaging the solenoids eletrics) they always come out seperately . There was soot between the two but I cleaned that all off. Strangley after a couple of days of only short journeys the car idles and runs smoothly again! I'll have to see what it's like after my usual 85 mile round trip commute but suspect it'll return to shaking when idling ;(

In terms of tests - I found a service information sheet on the Pierburg website - it explains in detail how to check the valve is operating correctly. Try the url below.

www.pierburg-service.de/ximages/pg_si_0043_en_web.pdf‎

Sorry, wrong link. Try this:

https://www.partinfo.co.uk/docs/79

i didnt realise there was so many replies to my thread, my engine shakes on idle it comes and goes, all i do is short journeys so im assuming its the egr valve, there is loads of smoke when i accelerate as well in each gear, can someone explain to me how to do the hanging of the string trick you guys are talking about? i did clean my egr valve but im assuming i didnt do it right... would this cause the heavy smoke on acceleration?

I just replied to your other thread.

With short journeys you must use the best oil available, e.g. Mobil 1 0w40 or any MB229.5/RN0710, and change it once a year. You may already have a fault at hand...

If you see smoke behind you in day time, it's bad. Do you ever have to top up the oil?