Megane 1.5dci turbo does not kick in and max speed 60mph

[jamhops]

So my car has been becoming a little less responsive pulling away but I assume I must be imagining it. Today:

The turbo has stopped kicking in at all (also normally I would have black smoke from the turbo nothing at all now (as she isnt there..))
She is struggling to get upto 55/60mph and even that is as if I was driving a 1970's beetle (or like)
On Motorway in 5th > 2100rpm is near impossible with foot down and includes a 1 minute delay
Noticed some oil on the pipe at the far rear of the engine and the small block infront of it (that could have been there forever)
Also ODB returns P0670 (current) Powertrain (but this is a glowplug fault (normally) so why is Torque returning powertrain) Also assume this isnt relevant (has been like it a while)

Think that is all I can think of... there is a video of on the motorway and can put pictures of the oil if they are useful?

Thanks

Ben

[jamhops]

Could this be caused by the EGR Valve (dunno what it does just hear about it alot)

[davelowe]

Could this be caused by the EGR Valve (dunno what it does just hear about it alot)

Yes - possibly. There are at least 3 different configurations that I know of on the 1.5 engines vis a vis the EGR. Hopefully yours is of the type that is removed by unscrewing 3 bolts (they can be a bit a of a struggle to get out).

Also check all the PCV hoses for a jelly like deposit, and inspect the quality of the oil in the engine. If you see a brownish sludge, change it asap.

[jamhops]

Yes - possibly. There are at least 3 different configurations that I know of on the 1.5 engines vis a vis the EGR. Hopefully yours is of the type that is removed by unscrewing 3 bolts (they can be a bit a of a struggle to get out).

Also check all the PCV hoses for a jelly like deposit, and inspect the quality of the oil in the engine. If you see a brownish sludge, change it asap.

Does that mean is shouldnt be a broken turbo or anything mega major(most lightly)? (Hopes)
Is there a link to cleaning or removing the EGR I had a search but except for google I dont think I can use search engines

Also is it recommended to just replace the EGR or clean it and see how it goes?

[jamhops]

I was trying to clean the EGR and was following the guide but mine seems to have an unmentioned pipe I cant get off :s


Just to verify the item in the centre of the image is the EGR Valve?


So the image is upsidedown but the gold pipe is (actually silver) and going into the EGR Valve I can seem to get it off and should I be taking it off? Also cant get it to move at all seems like it also had an extra bolt going into the engine (but I am not 100% sure about that). I have had the black pipe off and tried to slide it in that direction (oposite way to the metal pipe on the left....) Am I doing this wrong if its the right unit? Are there any tricks to slide it out?

Finally was there meant to be oil around the black pipe when I disconnected it?

Thanks

[davelowe]

For now clean the EGR - it won't harm anything. If the turbo isn't spinning at all, it's bad news - but could be worse. If the bearings had disintegrated it might not have been pretty in the slightest.

Your images were not attached correctly so we have not seen them. The EGR can appear to be stuck in place. When you are certain that you have identified the correct part and have unbolted it, some ingenuity may be required (hit it - gently(!)).

[jamhops]

Thankyou for the reply

These are the images,
image 1
https://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/24 ... 12015.jpg/
image 2
https://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/46 ... 12020.jpg/

Well I tried to get the EGR out... dropped the bolt when I was securing it to call it a night... then thought I would check the oil as the engine looked like the seal could be off... the dipstick snapped so thats another task to be completed.

All in all its not going great so far


Anyway going to sort the dipstick myself and try once more ont he EGR and diagnosis... after that I may have to call it a day and drop it into the garage (hoping that doesnt happen as I dont see this being cheap)


Are there guides for the EGR and Dipstick fix? If not I was thinking of contributing with my attempt at a guide if not...

[jamhops]

Ok so a day working on the car and she is ALOT better, I used carb cleaner on the EGR I was shocked how dirty it was it couldnt move at all and took 15minutes to start it opening. Also carb cleanered the air heat sensor as that was covered in oil and after a bit of driving the car really starting to go back to its old self .

I Also read about disconnecting the air flow sensor and if it is faulty there should be a noticeable difference so pulled over and gave it a go.... she was faster then she has ever been and though it was difficult on Sunday afternoon (people pottering about and didnt understand my need to go as fast as I could ) I still managed to have some fun

With regards to the dip stick snapped and assumed sitting in the stump... I am stumped I tried to get it out but it doesnt seem to be an o-ring it rotates pretty easily (within the area it has) but will not budge out at all. I was wondering if anyone has found that the dip sticks pipe is screwed in (if so I am not sure I can get it out). Any help on expanding this would be appreciated?

So all in all a good days effort, I will spray the air flow sensor with a bit of carb cleaner in the next couple days and try and save £100 odd

NOTE: The video that had the best guide for me to follow with regards to cleaning the EGR is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DWNO0KX_xHM
    

[jamhops]

I hope someone replies but... I disconnected the airflow meter and my car acted like it was on fire, better then ever before. I tried to clean the airflow meter (oil off with Carb cleaner) but she is still less responsive when connected. My question is when disconnected is it driving as if the flow meter works or better than ever? I.e.is my meter faulty or is it just normal...

Thanks

[davelowe]

Not sure about the flow sensor - is it the type with a heated filament? To be honest I think I may be thinking of something else. In the unlikely event I'm right, those things don't take well to contamination or cleaning.

[jamhops]

i cleaned the air flow sensor with 99.9% alcohol with no improvement (but did have oil on it). I payed £42 for a garage to diagnose it, for the price i expected monitoring the sensors etc with a nice print out..... i was wrong all i got is 'we wiped the code, drove it for 5 minutes and nothing came up car seems fine' 'oh and your dip stick has snapped'

So a f...ing waste of time, effort and money. She is relatively ok the power cut out for a second while driving and now the radio just say ERROR. None the less I will get a AFM from a scrap yard as £150 doesnt appeal if its not even faulty. As for the radio fuses are fine, may disconnect the battery and see if its happier when reconnected?

BUT I do have a car with turbo just an unhappy engine

[AlexB]

jamhops,

Very soon you will realise that it is very difficult to find a mechanic rather than a labourer or a fitter. Then you will get ELM327 from ebay, record the live engine parameters under the fault and start looking for unusual readings... You can also plot them and post the plots here.

By the way, did you check whether or not the linkage to the turbo moves freely? Does it move on its own within seconds after starting the engine? Is the vacuum circuit to the actuator OK? Did the car have the turbo, injectors, pump or something else changed recently? Many things need to be programmed after being replaced... It is also important to have all filters serviced before any further diagnosis.

[jamhops]

I have an elm327 thats what annoyed me so much as i had done what they did... i use torque on android but i need something that reads out more data. With regards to the rest thinl I checked all of that but will check again later/tomorrow but the turbo does seem to be ok it is general acceleration.

Anyway I shall return with a report

thanks for the reply

[AlexB]

Right, so there are no OBD codes recorded, all sensors returm meaningful data, there are no warning lights on the dash and yet the acceleration is poor. Did I understand you correctly?

If this is the case, then use Torque to plot the following live parameters: RPM, Calcualted Load, Air Flow, Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure, Fuel Rail Pressure. Do it under load while driving. Let's see what it shows. The absolute values and their consistency are important. It is possible, for example, that a sensor is malfunctioning. Then, again for example, it will be telling the ECU that the rail pressure is high, while it is low, or the same with the boost pressure... Anyway, I need to see the diagrams first.

[AlexB]

I mean, I need to see something similar to this:
https://www.tboneandporcini.pwp.blueyond ... strun1.jpg