Another check injection issue

[justin_healey]

Hello All,

Recently Changed the EGR.

I was getting the "CHECK INJECTION" warning for a bit. I removed the EGR and cleaned it a while back with some success.

The Issue has now returned after a few thousand miles and after 2 weekends of cleaning it to identify the issue I had to give in and get a new one. This has made a noticeable improvement! However, when I am now on the motorway doing 70mph to 80mph the Warning re-appears!

This was the problem before but it just happened at around 50mph. basically you’re driving along and you hear/feel a very slight thud and the warning appears a split second after this happens. If you then attempt to accelerate the engine flat-spots and you cant get any more out of it so you are reduced to using the torque down low and just building up momentum.

If it was a petrol car it feels exactly like the fuel mixture is too rich and/or the PCV system is blocked. I took it to my local garage for it to be plugged in. Guess what... No Fault codes stored. Also if you pull-over, turn off the engine and wait till the car shuts down and the immobilizer light starts flashing and the re-start the warning clears and off you go with no issue... I’m confused!

It was throwing up a mechanical fault beforehand when it went for a standard service and the code was P2263 according to his system which I believe which was pointing to a pressure issue due to a mechanical failure of the EGR and or Turbo.

When you start the Car after a rest overnight or at the end of the working day it throws out a little blue smoke if you rev it, however never any other time after it is warm. A bit when you give it some but I kind of expect that from a diesel. I read somewhere else that some sort of oil drain may be blocked?

Don’t know where to start really as this is my first Diesel and Turbo car and I am learning as I go.

The Engine is a 1.5 DCI 106hp either a K9K 732 or K9K 734 (Not sure what the difference is but I have the one with the perpendicular solenoid EGR Valve, not the straight one).

If someone could Also let me know how to find out what engine model I have that would be handy for further servicing and parts needed.

I have done some research into getting a new turbo and it looks like there is a small housing with a Diaphragm inside it mounted to the turbo. Is this the case? And could this be the issue if it has perished due to the heat?

I am thinking of taking the turbo off and stripping it down and giving it a good clean-out anyway. Does anyone know of a “KIT” which one could order for all the gaskets and seals to re-condition this model of Turbo. Alternatively could someone let me know what I should order if they know of all the parts that I would need to get the job done. Or is it best to just get a new unit.

According to a few websites the part number of the

Turbo for this engine is:
5439 970 0070
or
5439 970 0030

Any Help would be appreciated

Regards and thanks again for the help

J

AS REQUEST FROM THE STICKY.

Car has recently been serviced, Tyres rather worn but getting new ones this week. this is not the issue.
about 81000 miles done in total mostly motorway miles. (I am currently averaging 18k miles a year) 56 plate

[direstraits]

I would suggest you take the car to a garage that has CLIP, original Renault diagnostics tool. They can plug it in, take it for a drive on the motorway and read the faults stored or not, and record all the parameters vital to the functioning of turbo, EGR etc.
The fault you had (P2263) has to do something with the air intake circuit. It can be loads of things: vacuum pump, diaphragm, turbocharging solenoid valve (and connector, from and to the computer)...
I'd suggest the following:
Measure the resistance of the damper valve solenoid valve between tracks 1 and 2: The resistance must be between 21 Ω ± 2.1 at 23°C.
Replace the solenoid valve if the resistance is outside the tolerance values.

[kazgaz1]

hey justin, i just checked mine again regarding air bubbles in fuel pipe. there is a massive bubble approx 6 cm long!!!

[tomalamix]

did you check the system for leaks as i told you on the PM?

cheers

[kazgaz1]

hiya tom, not had chance yet. work gets in the way lol.....
got another piece for the puzzle... if i keep the revs under 2000 no check light at all. could this be that demand is higher and the air bubbles are causing the light? or could it be the turbo actuator under load that is causing the check injection? more pieces to the puzzle.
cheers

[tomalamix]

well, under 2000rpm is not a high demand and even with air in the pipes you dont notice. But if you press the pedal im sure you will have the dash warning...

when youve done it post it

cheers

[kazgaz1]

thanks tom, and i will most def. its the only thing that is really bugging me. otherwise love the car
gaz

[kazgaz1]

hi justin, had mine checked and it looks like the turbo wastegate solenoid malfunction. that was one of the fault codes stored, the other was heater plug circuit.
gaz

[tomalamix]

wastegate? this engine is not variable geometry?

cheers

[davelowe]

The turbo is variable geometry, but the actuator controlling the geometry is via a solenoid. Perhaps the fault code is generic?

[tomalamix]

yep, maybe thats it dave. should check the solenoid correct function. 1st with engine stopped try to move the rod that came from the solenoid to the turbo, it must move just to make sure its not jammed. if it moves turn the engine on and rev it up a little. check if the solenoid makes the rod move.

cheers

[kazgaz1]

hiya tom, dave. have had a quick look and according to the haynes manual and the location given the solenoid is located below the ecu and is only connected with 2 vacum hoses. unless there is smothing missing?
gaz

[tomalamix]

that is connect to the turbo also using a rod. you must test the movement of that rod by hand and then when you rev up the engine it should move

cheers

[kazgaz1]

hi tom. well had the car in pieces. checked the wastegate rod. with engine off it moves. start car and then rev engine and it moves into to wastegate but doesnt move back when engine has returned to idle. is this the correct way. do not have any idea on the actions of the wastegate as this is the first time i have had problems with a turbo or solenoid. i also checked the hoses that come from the vacumm, the first comes from the vacumm then goes to the solenoid and is connected to one that says vac. the second hose then leaves the solenoid and goes to the wastegate. this connection on the solenoid is label out. i did wonder if they were the wrong way around so did connect them the other way and when the engine was revved a little the rod to the wastegate didnt move. so i have no idea.
any suggestions?

thanks
gaz

[davelowe]

Hmm. Does it spring back okay when you try it by hand?

While nobody is replying, bump this post. I'll give it some thought.

Just read your engine size in the first post. I have the same one: I'll look at mine (when it's light).

Also, did you remove just the top part of the EGR (the bit with the wiring connector on) or the large piece that the convoluted tubing goes into?