Rear Brake Disc & Pads

[AlexB]

True. There are, basically two options: either the rear discs alone without bearing and ABS rings (aftermarket option), or everything assembled together (OEM option). I chose the OEM option -- less hassle plus some assurance that the bearings will not fail half way through the life of the discs.

[davelowe]

Joeish,

You are talking about the old days technology. If you look at your brakes, you will discover shims on the pads. The shims have special coating, which makes greasing them redundant. The whole pad has a different and also a special type of coating. The friction side of the pad is chamfered and coated with bedding-in compound. In the middle it has a cut to remove gasses under heavy breaking. The calliper also has coating and the stainless plates in the points where the pad contacts it. By applying grease, you are just inviting more dirt in the system, which will solidify once saturated with dust.

The brakes squeak because people use incorrect/cheap materials in servicing, do certain things incorrectly (the usual problem with adjustment of handbrakes) or don't repair them once damaged through lack of use or corrosion.
Finally, copper grease is obsolete as an anti-seize. These days people use ceramic paste that does not cause galvanic corrosion.

This is informative and interesting. It should be made a sticky in its own right.

It's a shame that not all of the bodywork is electrically connected (rubber bushes and so forth), otherwise I would bolt a lump of zinc on somewhere and kiss goodbye to rust. In the mean time, it's Waxoyl or some KMS stuff I've been trying out (another story).

[Dazg73]

i have just fitted these and had no problems so far https://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 87&alt=web

[AlexB]

Hi Dave,

A block of zinc will only work under water or when the whole part is covered with ice/snow. Otherwise, only a small area around the block is protected. There's a very old method of connecting carbon electrodes to the surface of the paint with some sort of magical ionic membrane and applying pulses of voltage to it. This creates a surface potential protecting the exposed metal in the paint defects. Unfortunately, this is not suitable for the suspension components, because the coating on them perish quite quickly, and the method is not suitable for bare surfaces or rust.

In my experience, it is easier to use anticorrosion paint everywhere you see rust when servicing the car in spring.

Joeish,

You are talking about the old days technology. If you look at your brakes, you will discover shims on the pads. The shims have special coating, which makes greasing them redundant. The whole pad has a different and also a special type of coating. The friction side of the pad is chamfered and coated with bedding-in compound. In the middle it has a cut to remove gasses under heavy breaking. The calliper also has coating and the stainless plates in the points where the pad contacts it. By applying grease, you are just inviting more dirt in the system, which will solidify once saturated with dust.

The brakes squeak because people use incorrect/cheap materials in servicing, do certain things incorrectly (the usual problem with adjustment of handbrakes) or don't repair them once damaged through lack of use or corrosion.
Finally, copper grease is obsolete as an anti-seize. These days people use ceramic paste that does not cause galvanic corrosion.

This is informative and interesting. It should be made a sticky in its own right.

It's a shame that not all of the bodywork is electrically connected (rubber bushes and so forth), otherwise I would bolt a lump of zinc on somewhere and kiss goodbye to rust. In the mean time, it's Waxoyl or some KMS stuff I've been trying out (another story).