The Mégane II Owners' Club

Hi, I bought my megane 1.5dci 2002 70k for the low road tax and fuel economy for which im getting a very good 58mpg.

The problems though are now building up. Ive read the first 60 pages of ownership problems and used the search/read first/sticky threads and some issues I now have a idea how to fix.
My main concerns now are:
1: Steering wheel makes a clicking noise when turned to full lock either way....will it definatly be the clock spring? Can I replace it myself?
2: Washer fluid now dribbles out of front but rockets out of back!...was going to try draining the fluid bottle do I have to remove the bumper or the wheel and plastic casing? How do I drain the fluid out exactly, ive read that if you use the stalk once emptied the fuse will blow.
3: The blowers on setting 1 and 2 are virtually doing nothing only once I turn to 3/4 do I get a reasonable output.
4: The front seatbelts only retract with help.
5: On Both keycards the boot open button only makes the lights flash, going to open them up to check soldering.
6: The dial that controls the blower settings is very stiff and does not stay in place correctly, for example when I turn it to the window setting it wont stay there it yanks back slightly, does this dial come off?

Many thanks for any help,

Hi and welcome daniel168,

I'll try to answer your questions in the order you wrote them.
1. If it is a rubbing on plastic noise from the where the stalk is, then it is likely to be the clock spring. It is replaced with the stalk assembly, which can be done DIY. If it is a loud shooting noise which happens only once when the steering wheel reaches the full lock one or the other way, then it is the joint in the driver's foot well. There was a recall for this, the joint is fixed by adding some two-component resin and re-tightening the bolt (without resin this fix does not work).
2. To access the washer bottle remove the bumper. It is a 10 minutes job. The plastic trim and the plastic rivets under the trim go first. Be gentle with the rivets, prise their inner part first. Then remove one screw under each wing. Then unscrew the five bolts of the plastic undertray on the front and sides. Then remove the bumper which is hold in place with catches under the headlamps and in the grill area. See the manual in the sticky thread for details.
No, the fuse doesn't blow when running dry. The problem is probably caused by not using a proper screenwash liquid.
3. The cabin filter is probably blocked. it is removed by pulling it towards the pedals and then bending in the direction of the seat. The new one is installed by breaking its slots (you will see how in the due course) and sliding it in. Get the new of activated carbon type from ebay.
4. Inspect, wash with soapy water, replace if nothing can be done. The seatbelts are forbidden to repair or lubricate. I clean them with the same narrow tool of the carpet washer (VAX) as for the seats. Yes, they retract slowly, which is irritating.
5. If the lights flash, then the cards work. Don't open them! Just unlock the boot with the same button as the doors. It is the first time I hear about such a problem.
6. Operate the controls many times under maximum heat setting. Replace the filter first.

daniel168 wrote:Hi, I bought my megane 1.5dci 2002 70k for the low road tax and fuel economy for which im getting a very good 58mpg.

The problems though are now building up. Ive read the first 60 pages of ownership problems and used the search/read first/sticky threads and some issues I now have a idea how to fix.
My main concerns now are:
1: Steering wheel makes a clicking noise when turned to full lock either way....will it definatly be the clock spring? Can I replace it myself?
2: Washer fluid now dribbles out of front but rockets out of back!...was going to try draining the fluid bottle do I have to remove the bumper or the wheel and plastic casing? How do I drain the fluid out exactly, ive read that if you use the stalk once emptied the fuse will blow.
3: The blowers on setting 1 and 2 are virtually doing nothing only once I turn to 3/4 do I get a reasonable output.
4: The front seatbelts only retract with help.
5: On Both keycards the boot open button only makes the lights flash, going to open them up to check soldering.
6: The dial that controls the blower settings is very stiff and does not stay in place correctly, for example when I turn it to the window setting it wont stay there it yanks back slightly, does this dial come off?

Many thanks for any help,

daniel168 wrote:Hi, I bought my megane 1.5dci 2002 70k for the low road tax and fuel economy for which im getting a very good 58mpg.

The problems though are now building up. Ive read the first 60 pages of ownership problems and used the search/read first/sticky threads and some issues I now have a idea how to fix.
My main concerns now are:
1: Steering wheel makes a clicking noise when turned to full lock either way....will it definatly be the clock spring? Can I replace it myself?
2: Washer fluid now dribbles out of front but rockets out of back!...was going to try draining the fluid bottle do I have to remove the bumper or the wheel and plastic casing? How do I drain the fluid out exactly, ive read that if you use the stalk once emptied the fuse will blow.
3: The blowers on setting 1 and 2 are virtually doing nothing only once I turn to 3/4 do I get a reasonable output.
4: The front seatbelts only retract with help.
5: On Both keycards the boot open button only makes the lights flash, going to open them up to check soldering.
6: The dial that controls the blower settings is very stiff and does not stay in place correctly, for example when I turn it to the window setting it wont stay there it yanks back slightly, does this dial come off?

Many thanks for any help,

1. Not definitely. Is the noise outside (mounts/springs) or inside? Yes you can do it yourself, triumph2.5man has posted about this. Have a search - if you get stuck I'll find the relevant post.
2. Problem is probably a blockage. Access is easiest with the bumper removed and it is a simple job: Take the trim off the front inside of the bonnet (plastic clips). Remove the engine under tray (6 x M10 bolts). Remove front wheel arch liners (Torx 20?? and prise off plastic clips). Tug gently on the bumper and find the hidden integral clips under the bonnet. A flat bladed screwdriver will press them down. Be gentle, these clips can be easily damaged. If you have fog lamps, disconnect them (near side wheel arch). With an assistant withdraw and store. No need to jack anything up off the ground or remove wheels. The motor runs bi-directionally to spray front or rear (via pipe valves). Trace the piping from the bonnet to the motor and bottle. From memory you can remove all with the bumper off. Check for blockages (might be an idea to trace the pipes before removing the bumper!).
3. In the drivers footwell is the cabin/pollen filter behind a plastic panel. Remove panel, take out filter, insert hoover attachment into filter housing and observe Dyson filling full of leaves. Either hoover filter and put back or replace with a new one. This should improve flow.
4. Same on mine. Passes MOT. Cure is to strip B pillar trim and remove retractor - not for the faint hearted.
5. There is a thread about dismantling the keycards: proceed with extreme caution (read thread first).
6. Pass.

We nearly agree Alex!

Indeed, Dave!

I just doubt that both keycards could fail in an absolutely the same way while preserving the basic functionality. They are expensive to replace, so I wouldn't be cutting them without much need...

Does your seatbelt retract fast as a result of whatever you did to it? I know, it is a common problem in many cars, including BMW. My seatbelt also takes irritatingly long time to retract.

davelowe wrote:We nearly agree Alex!

for the washer pump, try the removing relevant screws/fastenings and bending the drivers wheel arch liner back first and going in through there. I managed to change mind this way. Warning though, be prepared to work 'blind' as you won't be able to see what you're doing until you've actually got the pump off - then there will be enough length in the water tubes to pull it out a bit and see what you're doing if you are changing it.

Update:
The steering wheel clicking noise seems to come and go. Its more frequent when ive turned then let the wheel go to self right.
The washer problem is still unsolved, Ive drained the fluid out by twisting the stalk and refilled with warm water. The front washer then worked great until I tried the back, this then took the pressure off the front and they didnt work again. So ive now drained and refilled and only use the front. Ive resigned to the fact that I probably need a new pump.
I took out the cabin filter and cleaned (loads of leaves) refitted and seems to work better.
Havnt touched the seatbelts yet
The boot unlock button is still only making the lights flash and nothing else on both cards, Im going to open up the spare card (using the thread info) and re solder the joints.

thanks for your help

AlexB wrote:I just doubt that both keycards could fail in an absolutely the same way while preserving the basic functionality. They are expensive to replace, so I wouldn't be cutting them without much need...

Does your seatbelt retract fast as a result of whatever you did to it? I know, it is a common problem in many cars, including BMW. My seatbelt also takes irritatingly long time to retract.

I misread the keycard part of the message - doubt the cards are to blame.

My seatbelt will retract fully - left overnight. I don't have a solution, it's something I will look into - though I expect that a replacement is the only option with the regulations.