Page 1 of 1

lowering the clutch biting point

Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 1:51 pm
by Conor Megane
is it possible to lower the biting point if it is on a cable if so how easy is it to do as its doing my nut being so high compared to my fiesta
cheers
conor

Re: lowering the clutch biting point

Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 2:40 pm
by davelowe
Most models have a self adjusting hydraulic clutch.

The problem you have may be due to air in the system. Depends on mileage / age / model, etc.

Re: lowering the clutch biting point

Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 2:49 pm
by Conor Megane
davelowe wrote:Most models have a self adjusting hydraulic clutch.

The problem you have may be due to air in the system. Depends on mileage / age / model, etc.


rite its a 2003 with 59000 miles

how do i get the bite lower because it is undriveable now and sitting on the drive because of this problem dosent air in the system make it bite lower
also if there was an electrical fault would the bite be in the wrong place

and you say it is self adjusting how does it do this as i want it to adjust lower to the floor

any help would be really grateful
cheers
conor

Re: lowering the clutch biting point

Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 3:22 pm
by davelowe
If the bite point is high, then you need to compress any air in the system more before the clutch releases (by pressing the clutch down further). If it hits the floor and doesn't disengage then you have a problem somewhere.

It is relatively easy to bleed on the 2003 car. Make sure there is hydraulic fluid in the master cylinder and that it is topped up to max. You have to remove the battery, tray, ECU, air cleaner and some ductwork to get to the bleed nipple. It will bleed with gravity once the nipple is open. Keep the fluid topped up.

If this doesn't cure it, you may have a problem with the master / slave cylinders, pipework or the clutch assembly itself.

I don't think that the problem could be related to an electrical system, but may be wrong.

I suggest you try the bleeding first as it can be done at home with simple tools (low cost solution). Unless you are a mechanic, the other issues will require expense.

Do the brakes work properly?

Someone else may have better ideas.

Re: lowering the clutch biting point

Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 5:56 pm
by AlexB
I agree with Dave. Whatever happens with the hydraulic system - change the fluid and bleed it before attempting anything else. Make sure that the floor mat does not restrict the movement of the pedal. The pedal needs to be pressed all the way in order to help the self-adjusting mechanism to do its job. The brake/clutch fluid, BTW, must be changed every second year, which is a characteristic of the fluid and not the car.

Re: lowering the clutch biting point

Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 7:04 pm
by Conor Megane
right ok will change the il first what grade or brand should i get then

so i know this sounds silly but what exactly do i have to do step by step exaclty what i have to do and if i follow this and the clutch is ok will the biting point be lowered and by how much

sorry if i seem not clued up but first megane and first car with a high clutch that i cant drive haha
cheers
conor

Re: lowering the clutch biting point

Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 8:57 pm
by Conor Megane
bump

Re: lowering the clutch biting point

Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 11:35 pm
by davelowe
Jesus, no reply in 2 hours and you are bumping threads!?

DOT 4 should do it. You can buy it just about anywhere. Keep it in a sealed bottle as it is hygroscopic (it absorbs water) which is what Alex meant by the characteristic of the fluid. The water absorption is what makes it change colour. Never re-use old fluid for this reason. Also, don't splash it on the paintwork. It's good as a paint stripper.

Re: lowering the clutch biting point

Posted: Sat Aug 24, 2019 3:38 pm
by tonyfox1956
davelowe wrote:Most models have a self adjusting hydraulic clutch.

The problem you have may be due to air in the system. Depends on mileage / age / model, etc.


No, sorry its the opposite. If you had "air" in the system the pedal would be spongy and the bite point would be too LOW!
The high bite point means the auto adjuster is at its limit and or the clutch polate friction material is worn .
I have owned a few Renaults where the bite was all the way at the top and just kept going.
Try handbrake on and taking off in 2nd gear! If it slips its kapoot, if it stalls, just live with the high bite point

Re: lowering the clutch biting point

Posted: Wed Aug 28, 2019 6:09 pm
by vanmanpaul83
davelowe wrote:Jesus, no reply in 2 hours and you are bumping threads!?

DOT 4 should do it. You can buy it just about anywhere. Keep it in a sealed bottle as it is hygroscopic (it absorbs water) which is what Alex meant by the characteristic of the fluid. The water absorption is what makes it change colour. Never re-use old fluid for this reason. Also, don't splash it on the paintwork. It's good as a paint stripper.


The renault megane requires DOT 4 ESP brake fluid