Bloody french designers

[cyclonebri1]

The wifes 2007 megane has been a pain in the jacksie blowing headlight bulbs way to often, anyway another went a few weeks ago and when I checked the dipped light connector was loose and had over heated and damaged the plastic, the bulb was fine. So ordered a couple of ceramic connectors from China via ebay, less than a Quid for 2 delivered. The light failed again a week later so waited for the new bits, they arrived This Friday.
Took the wheel arch liner etc out as I new I couldn't fit new connectors through that pathetic sized hole. But, the connector block had snapped completly and the bulb had shattered at the rear. Not to worry, I was cutting the ends of the wires anyway and had bought a box of 10 H7s some time back.
Just had enough wire to strip back and crimp on 2 new spades then build up the connector, new bub in and the jobs a goodun', I should cocoa.

No light and no voltage at the connector. Now given the damage it's fair to asume that the spades had touched and shorted out the electrics, so where's the fuse?, where's the fusebox come to that? After failing on info from the owners manual and haynes ever faithfull google came to the asistance.

For christs sake, even knowing what I was looking for it took me 1 1/2 hours this morning to reach the fuse and there's even more to remove on the dci than on any reference I found.

Basically remove battery, I didn't thing the tray needed to come out

Remove screws from disguised fuse box near battery then break it open, I say that as it sealed by a small section of plastic that has to be cut or snapped.

Try to remove multiples unit, cant so battery tray has to come out. Remove numerous clip that don't come out so snap off.

Prise full wiring harnes out of the way to remove tray.

No, on the 1.5dci the ECU is mounted on the battery tray, no mention of this in any info I'd found.

Remove ECU, rease massive wiring harness clips and bend all the wiring out of the way after reasing several more clips

Remove multiplex unit, not as easy as the "slide out .... unit" info I'd got, there are massive retaining barbed clips to the rear, took a big screwdriver to release it.

Now I can see all the large blade fuses that simply aren't visible without all that work. But they were all rated from 40 to 70 amps so I had my doubts and indeed they were all good.

Now what I hadn't realised is that the multiplex unit is mounnted in a sort of half sheath, it's held in again by barbe clips that take a fine screwdriver and 2 pairs of hands to release

Ureka turn over the MPU and underneath, bloody underneath there's about 20 various mini blad fuses and 1 10amp one had blown.

Don't ask me if all is well as I was so pissed of at that point that I gave it up for the day, but why oh why is it designed to be that way? It's not inconceivable that a headlap fuse will blow is it.


I sold my megane est 3 years ago and bought a nissan qashqai, that has been patheticly unreliable. So Renault have introduced the Kadjar, my orders in a 1 in september, this morning has really go me thinking

[triumph2.5man]

Well I must say, you certainly learned the hard way!
Consider the following. Familiarity certainly makes the job a lot easier! I have changed UPC so many times I can almost do it in my sleep!
i had to do it this evening on our 1.5dci 2003 so I did a bit of time and motion study! Took under 5 mins, no sweat, including popping indoors to fetch the camera. It took longer to type this!
loosen the battery clamp and move the battery as far left as poss. Remove the cover fro the UPC, remove the "interconnection unit" at the top - the big white plug - no need to split this. Remove all the plugs and wiring and move to one side. A couple at the back (one brown, one blue) with overcam locking levers are a bit tricky to get to so leave these until last. Undo the power supply *13mm bolt" (this acts as a "busbar" for the large internal fuses etc in the UPC.) Pull the tab out of its locating slot at the rear and slide the UPC sideways towards the battery and it will come out and up cleanly. At this point, unclip the last two plugs at the back RHS (these feed the engine bay multiplex beneath the small tower - this tower is handy to use as a hand hold.) Hey presto, it is out. Spend a few minutes checking all the fuses, including the big ones beneath and put it back same way. Fit the two multiplex plugs first and continue locating the UPC into its housing. All the other plugs fall easily into place, refit the 13mm bolt and the cover. Shift the battery back to the right and tighten the clamp. I did not bother to disconnect the battery but for most folk it would be advisable.
No need to remove the battery, the tray or the DCU, its holder and associated plugs and wiring. No need to snap or break anything! In fact some of the fuses on the UPC can be seen and removed in situ.
Why did I go to all this trouble? Not to prove a point that's for certain! The front wipers had stopped working mysteriously, starting with slow speed failure, then intermittent, then finally full speed. The screen washer worked OK as did the rear wash/wipe. Checked all the associated fuses and the plugs to the "under steering wheel controls". Nothing found. Time to change to a spare UPC. That did the trick!
When it comes to working on Meganes there ain't no substoot for experience - and having a spare UPC!
Hopefully what I have written here will help some long-suffering Meg owner!

Vive la belle Mégane!

Mike

[cyclonebri1]

Hi, well I can tell you as I said the fuse box lid is perforated and has to be "broken" the 1st time the lid comes of, a little like the covers over the wiper bolts. Agreed after that it's simple.

Now, I would not advise anyone to tackle this without disconnecting the battery, you have that dirty great busbar live lead too close to the chassis for comfort.
You have to remove the battery, it's impossible without as it's the tray rather than the battery that in the way and the ECU is mounted on the tray, that also has to come out. In any case this has had a larger replacement battery fitted which would have meant it has to come out anyway

Add the fact that one of the threaded inserts in the battery tray had broken in 2 so I had to drill it out and put another insert in before replacement and there's more time.

I must admit it took only about 15 mins to replace everything after checking all the fuses.


I don't take a word back. there has to be a far simpler way of doing it than this

[triumph2.5man]

Now this is very interesting. I have reread what you wrote and I suspect the situation is as follows. Our car is a 2003 model, yours is 2007. Worlds apart and I have no experience of the later model (apart from a mk 3). The cover to our UPC simply lifts off and pushes back on. I am aware that the cover on later models is attached by two screws. There must be other differences also. This was done to prevent water access to the electronics (although we have never suffered from this at all.)
I attach a photo of the UPC removal, just to satisfy any doubting Thomases!
The "interconnection unit" can be seen top left. The blue plug to the multiplex unit is at the top. The power supply sits at the bottom out of harm's way (but you are right, it is prudent to disconnect.) The UPC slides out quite easily.
Does your set up ressemble this at all? I think I will stay with the early model!
Mike

https://s843.photobucket.com/user/triump ... 3.jpg.html

[cyclonebri1]

I'll take a look at that shortly. I also took photos before I put things back together so I'll load those up.




Definitely a different installation and multiplex unit so that explains the issues