The "steering locked" problem - and a temp solution!

[jase1979]

I now have this problem on the missus' car. I have the steering lock off, and I'm going to open it up tomorrow. If I can fix it, its going up for sale. The most problematic car we have ever owned! Thanks for the information in this post.

[andriusaaa]

Hello everyone,

I have the same problem with my 2008 mkII, and this thread was very helpful in determining the problem and hinting what should i do next. I know this is an old thread but thanks everyone, and i'll try to contribute.

Now to my problem - the whole steering lock was damaged on the car (by terrible people who sold me this car) and after me driving it for two years the metallic lid came of !! and the tamper proof thing fell out, after witch the steering got locked. So now i couldn't undo the bolt nor could i unpin the steering electronically. only one option remained - remove it by force. So now i am half way through, i removed the black plastic box relatively unharmed, but the pin is still in the car and i got home to get a drill and ... you should imagine.. anyways - i need a new steering lock box and two options remain: either to by a new one (325) or to by a used one and reset it. Now i fond a used one for 25, but i don`t know anybody with the right tools who could reset the damn thing.
So what if i would take the PCB out of the old lock module and put it into the new? Here are the pictures of the old smashed lock box disassembled, and as i understand the PCB is completely separate from the module engine or wiring (well technically it's not called wiring). The only thing that concerns me is a little part (A63E) in the 2th picture. Dose it have anything to do with immobilizing? I hope anyone can help and stop me from doing so, and if not, i will try to change the PCB and see what happens. Either way i will try to update.

And another thing. I called a company dealing megane electronic and they said that locking module from another car will fit perfectly without any reseting or programming, the only thing that i should do is deliver them the cards and cards reader - because that would fix my problem... i don't know..

[AlexB]

if they tinker with the secret codes, then why cant they just reset the memory module? They are making it look more complex than it is.

Yes, if your lock fell apart - it is a problem. It is one of those things that need to be fixed before they fail...

[approtech]

Hi andriusaaa, I have an answer to your specific question about the part marked A63E. I'm not sure exactly which technology it is, but it's a sensor/receiver thing which detects the position of the end of the rod which is flipped up or down by the cam. If you look at triumph2.5man's photos earlier in this topic, the rod is shown in photo 2, horizontal, near the top of the picture - it's spring-loaded at the left-hand end so as the cam goes round, it returns to its position.

I've been on this journey over the weekend since my 04 Megane failed an MOT for the steering lock not fully latching (it felt OK, but obviously the tester forces the wheel left and right pretty rigorously). According to the latest MOT info (I phoned VOSA today to check):

"It is acceptable for a steering lock to be removed if there is an alternative, permanently installed, immobilisation device fitted which acts on either: the steering; gear shift; transmission; or prevents the engine from running."

You can get this info from: https://www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs/ and click to download the manual for Classes 3,4,5 & 7. In the PDF once you unzip it, look at page 38 which is 'Section 2.1 - Steering Control'

Since all vehicles subject to this test are built after 1/9/2001 they will almost certainly have an immobiliser factory-fitted, which is acceptable as the "alternative, permanently installed, immobilisation device". VOSA confirmed to me on the phone that the lock has to be removed for this to be OK - if it is in place it must work.

OK, so I decided to remove my lock, it's actually pretty straightforward once you've removed the bits of panel and follow the rules - turn ignition on first (press and hold the start button for 5 seconds) otherwise the bolt will be locked in; remember the bolt (Torx T30) is reverse threaded so turn clockwise to unscrew. Once out of the car, the spring-loaded bolt certainly seems to be worn smooth on both sides, though impossible to say how much is wear or what shape it was 190,000 miles ago...!

Dismantled it and immediately made the same mistake as triumph2.5man - not knowing about the anti-tamper pin. For anyone else attempting this, have a look at https://chipgods.com/showthread.php?p=1267 which shows glueing the holding peg in place before opening the lid. Now I know about the pin and how to remove the white plastic holder (thanks triumph2.5man!) tomorrow's job will be to get the whole thing reassembled. For now though, following someone else's suggestion I found, I'm using the box without the bolt in place. So the electronics are there (without that, the car always says "steering locked" and refuses to start), and turning the ignition on or off activates the little motor, moving the rod into position over the sensor. It's intermittent though, makes a rasping noise (probably needs the weight of the bolt/plunger to stop the plastic gears over-running) and so only starts about one in three times. It'll do till tomorrow though. Once I've got it all in bits again I'll do some photos with pointers to post up here.

The only difficulty left (if I can't make it lock more firmly) will be proving to the MOT tester that it's removed since it still has to be electrically connected to the car and will still make the tell-tale clunks which makes him think it's fitted.

[AlexB]

Mine also looked a bit rounded on the tip. Then I found out that it was supposed to be like that. The problem was that the locking bolt did not travel far enough to engage the steering column. This was sorted by grinding off certain parts of the locking bolt.

The tamper protection thing is easy to remove completely.

...
OK, so I decided to remove my lock, it's actually pretty straightforward once you've removed the bits of panel and follow the rules - turn ignition on first (press and hold the start button for 5 seconds) otherwise the bolt will be locked in; remember the bolt (Torx T30) is reverse threaded so turn clockwise to unscrew. Once out of the car, the spring-loaded bolt certainly seems to be worn smooth on both sides, though impossible to say how much is wear or what shape it was 190,000 miles ago...

[approtech]

Success with grinding the locking bolt - I reckon I got another 1mm of travel which is enough to engage fully. Back for the retest later today: hopefully I'll get a pass and have saved a maybe £400 bill.

I took a few photos whilst reassembling it all and will post them here later.

[AlexB]

Well done. I also ground off the metal where the locking bolt catches the threaded mounting bolt, so the lock could be removed in future, even if it fails in the locked position.

[D77]

Just refreshing old thread. I'm in more deep trouble as my steering lock is blocked in locked position. Could anybody describe more detailed the process of dismantling (the brutual way) the lock in this case please? The brutuality should be as gentle as posssible... What parts should be drilled, cut, grinded or broken?
Thanks in advance.

[D77]

Managed to remove the lock. After some dismantling (removed instrument panel and unscrewed 2 nuts allowing to bend steering column 4-5 cm down) cut off the end (~6-7 mm) of left threaded bolt in fully fastened position. Then drilled away the head and approximately 15 mm of the bolt from downside with 6.5 mm auger. The bolt was unscrewed as much as possible (~5 mm) before that. Unfortunately this operation made some damage to the lock but possible to fix.

[Nelixuk2003]

I have just had this exact issue on the other halfs Megane CC. A tap with a hammer allowed the car to start, I removed the retaining bolt and applied some thread lock to prevent it from coming loose again, the unit only had literally less than 1mm of movement before i tightened it up.

Only time will tell.

Cheers

Nelixuk2003

[ellabooth]

RENAULT MEGANE'S ONLY,I KNOW OF A FULL OVER RIDE FOR THIS PROBLEM WITH STEERING LOCK, IF YOU GETTING ANY FAULTS WITH YOUR LOCKING UNIT WHERE YOUR ENGINE WILL NOT START, OR START ONLY NOW AND THEN,STOP LIGHT ON, SERVICE LIGHT ON, ELECTRONIC FAULT DISPLAYING, STEERIN ON, STEERING OFF PROBLEMS OR ANY FAULT WITH STEERING LOCK I CAN GET ROUND THIS BUT ONLY THING IS IT WILL STILL DISPLAY THE ELECTRONIC FAULT ON THE DISPLAY AND STOP SIGN IF ANYONE WOULD LIKE KNOW MORE INBOX ME THANKS MARTIN

[Frankw]

Hi Martin, my renault megan II, wont start. Indicates steering locked. Has been with dealer 2 months, nothing doing! Pls help

[Frankw]

Hi, can anyone assist me get a used steering lock unit part no. 82013 40960.
My mechanic reccomends replacement.
Frank W- Nairobi, Kenya

[OlderMan]

Very interesting thread.
I am planning on changing the electronics on a 2003 1.6 16v this weekend. The ECU?/immobiliser box, the one under the dash is burnt. I have opened it up, which is easy and there are two areas of melted varnish and smells of burnt plastic. Whole replacement set for £50 from same model in scrapyard.

Now, do I need to change the steering lock? I am not clear what the experience has been in the thread. Haynes says a new lock will be automatically coded, but the implication being a old one won't.
Also, if I take the original off; Haynes has quite a list of things that have got to come off, air bags etc. No one has mentioned these. Is the lock accessible with minimum strip down?

Regards,
Colin.

[theking]

And I was with exactly the same problem Steering Lock/Steering not lock. I was at Renault but once told me the amount I gave up and got my cars back. After much searching I recommended a master who can fix this problem. I called him and against £ 200 cardinal the problem is solved. Now electronic lock stay in my garage and car starting without problems.