Car Won't Start - 2 Audio Beeps

[marc_bucks]

It gets worse!!! Go to unlock the car and it won't unlock with the keycard. Soooo used the key to manually open the door and and alarm goes on and off constantly and car won't even start. Not even the fan comes on. Don't know whether to scream or cry I did disconeect the battery yesterday for 5 mins to see if it solved the problem but it didn't. Car just beeped 2 times again and fan kicked in.

I have had a look on ebay and can only see what is called a UPC box for £75 which I guess is just another name for a fuse box. Did call Renault to get a price on a fuse box and was told £186.78 including VAT (Damn thats pricey!!!!).

Was gonna take the fusebox out tomorrow to see if there is any water underneath that I can't see but now don't know if I have something more serious wrong with the car.

Why did I buy a Megane peps?!?!

[davelowe]

Persevere. Unlock the car, open the bonnet, and disconnect the -VE battery lead to silence the alarm. Then get busy with the fuse box. You might have to remove the ECU and battery to get good access to it all.

No idea what a UPC box is - it isn't a term I've previously come across. UCH is the box inside the car, and should not be purchased separately as it is coded to other computers. In any case, it is not 'serviceable'.

What has likely happened is that the hole where the wheel arch cap is, has allowed water, or worse - salted water (from gritting) to spray onto the underside of the fusebox and associated wiring (that is directly above it). This leads to corrosion - normally copper oxide (green) fouling the connections. This is the job that you have to tackle. Hence the cleaning and drying operations I described before.

Good luck.

[AlexB]

UCH is a different box that sits inside the cabin, a.k.a "PASSENGER COMPARTMENT CONNECTION UNIT" or Unite Centrale Habitacle (in French). It is an electronic control module that is fitted to many late model Renaults (early 2000's onwards.) It is responsible for controlling many of the non-engine related functions of the car, such as central locking, electric windows, and even some of the lights (e.g. indicators.)
[http://www.renaultforums.co.uk/glossary.php]

What you need is called "Engine Compartment Fuse and Relay Box" or "Protection and Switching Unit" (PSU). See the manual in the sticky thread for details including the levels of equipment, pin maps, fuses, drawings, etc.
In French it is "Boîtier fusibles relais compartiment moteur" or "l’unité de protection et de commutation", which explains the abbreviation UPC.

[davelowe]

Wot [sic] he said... The problem is still the same, however.. Repair or replace in this case. The choice is yours.

[kieron170971]

Hi,
I am also having this issue since parking the car in long stay for 3 days.
We have had a lot of rain the last few days so when I heard on the internet about this issue I hoped to find some water around the electrics.

I have had my car for 3 months with, (touch wood) no issues my car is a 2004 Dci Megane - 120.
Most of the lights illuminate on the dash and the cooling fan comes on. The lights, steering column, door locks, windows etc all work, (allthough the close all the way down feature stopped working on the windows and they only move about an inch at a time?!). When you press the start button again you hear two beeps.

The AA turned up and said 'it's your immobiliser mate' and left I was then recovered back to Bristol.
As last week was very wet and I did go through a few big puddles I set to work getting to the UCH and UPC today hoping to find water.
After taking ages to get them both out I found them both bone dry and all connections clean, (no corrosion). All fuses checked and intact.
I saw that the brown and white wires toward the top of the radiator appeared worn and exposed but did not appear to be shorting to metal or each other. I insulated these wires and checked for other damaged wires, bad earths, etc. Cant find anything wrong.
I've put it all back together now and don't really know what to try next.

PLEASE HELP ME SOMEONE, I NEED THE CAR NEXT WEEK FOR WORK

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Kieron.

[davelowe]

The window issue sounds like it needs recalibration. This is in the manual.

The two beeps occur, if I remember correctly, that the alarm has been set off.

I would check the state of the battery in this instance.

[AlexB]

kieron170971,

Regardless of the UPC being "bone dry", have you checked the cover on the hatch located on the front left arch liner? As Dave suggests, start checking everything with the battery, you've done the fuses, the next will be the UPC. The UPC is a very popular fault. It is connected to CAN bus and may cause communication problems between the other blocks, including the immobiliser.

The exposed wires that you've found also need further investigation. Look at them again.

[kieron170971]

Thanks guys,
All good advice.
I will spend some more time checking all around the wires and circuits tomorrow.
Both of the multiplex modules have been out, cleaned and dryed in the airing cupboard, all connections and earths cleaned.
I was surprised to see both module PCB's were conformally coated which should help prevent against moisture damage.
My innner arch liner is in tact as it should be.

I really cant help thinking I have a short somewhere and maybe the starter motor has packed up, not sure how this relates to the fan though, starter circuit?

Considering calling out a local auto electrician that I know on Tuesday as I need to get to work and he has the diag' kit and experience that I dont have.

Thanks again,

Kieron.

[AlexB]

Kieron,

Based on your words I am satisfied that there is no water damage. Still, a fault in UPC is possible. This box controls the starter, alternator, cooling fan, external lights (except the indicators), heated rear screen, etc. It also provides power to the steering column, steering lock, injection computer and aircon. This may answer your question regarding the relationship between the cooling fan and the starter.

In your case the steering column works. It means that either the functionality of UPC is partly preserved or the corresponding relay is stuck in "on" position.

I suggest you to check everything else controlled by this unit. You can also try to switch the ignition on without operating the starter. For that do not press neither pedal while holding the Start button for 5 seconds.

The list of devices that are controlled by UPC can be found in MR364MEGANE8.pdf, page 48.
https://ray-lee.co.uk/megane/dialogys/MR364MEGANE8.pdf

You did not answer my question regarding the exposed wires. Are you sure they are not melted or damaged by rodents? They may also indicate previous repairs or any problems. Have a look at them again.

[kieron170971]

Thanks Alex,

Again great advice.
I just turned the ignition on using the 5 second button press.
Red immobiliser light comes on along with 'STOP'. Oil, battery lights stay illuminated and Electronic fault is shown on the display.

I think I will try to take the module out again and check the relays, I wont be able to get a replacement today though
yesterday I went as far as checking the big fuses underneath but didnt look under this panel as I couldn't easily see how to get in there.

Re' the wires damge, it is subtle and has been casued by them rubbing against the plastic fan cowl.
I dont believe enough wire is exposed for them to short to each other due to the location of the wear on each wire. I have insulated these wires very well now to stop any rubbing in the future.

Thanks again.

Kieron.

[AlexB]

Battery and oil lights are supposed to stay, as the engine is not running. "Electronic Fault" is on despite the starter not being used -- this eliminates a glitch in power supply due to a weak battery. The immobiliser stays on due to either the electronic fault upsetting the communication on the on-board network or the steering lock being powered down.

Let's hope it is not the engine ECU failing... The radiator fan staying on points at the UPC rather than ECU, which is good. I would be tempted to replace the UPC before doing anything else - especially as they appear on ebay cheap.

[kieron170971]

Thanks Alex.

I have found this one on E bay, (only one).
Not sure if it's the correct model though?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BNIB-Renault- ... 4d00cde152

I have a local and well respected auto electrician coming tomorrow for some cash in hand work.
Do you think he will be able to diagnose to 'component failed' level?
Basically am I wasting my money getting him to look at the car?

Kieron.

[davelowe]

Your question relies solely on the competence of the electrician. Back probing and testing for continuity of all the available connectors would be my starting point, though I'm not an expert. I suspect labour costs will be your biggest outlay, but I might well be wrong.

It could be something simple that he/she can diagnose from experience. I would ask what and why the various tests your electrician performs, before handing over significant amounts of cash.

Most modern cars have their own individual niggles - but evidence is your friend; not floundering around with replacing parts to see what works. If you can get a result, let us know - knowledge is power!

[AlexB]

Kieron,

I don't know the part number of the box in your car and have no idea about the compatibility issues. The boxes for the higher equipment levels and newer cars might work, but may also require programming with Clip. The safest option is to buy a part from exactly (or almost exactly) the same car. In particular, the second hand block must be programmed to use the same alternator as yours. You may want to call the dealer for the part number. Pretend you are going to order it from them. They will search their database by your number plate.

An electrician with Clip, circuit diagrams and experience in Renault cars might help. Otherwise, it is difficult to say.

[kieron170971]

Hi,

The guy turned up today and seemed to have a good knowledge and experience of issues with Megane's.
He completed some continuity testing around the UPC and found no obvious faults.
He also checked the battery voltage and it was heavily depleted, (could be due to me trying to start it many times over the last few days causing the fan to constantly kick in).
He could not get any communication from the diagnostic kit.
He tells me that the cars are designed to go into fail safe mode if the battery voltage drops too low, (hence the fan and no comms).

I did raise the point about the ignition bypass but he suggested this still would be an issue?

It's now on charge and will be until later today.
If this does not work the garage I bought it from have reluctantly agreed to collect it tomorrow from my home, (2 weeks left on a 3 month warranty).

Regards,

Kieron.