hi dave, egr completely removed cleaned and is free to operate as normal... regarding the wastegate it moved freely by hand however when i watched it when engine running when the revs increased it moved but as revs decreased it didnt appear to move back. should it moved back straight away? been doing loads or reading on net also checked vacuum pressure leading into and out of the solenoid at idle was 0.8 bar when revs applied it dropped to 0.6bar that was from vacuum to solenoid. on the other pipe to the wastegate it was at 0.8 at idle but dropped even more when revs applied... any ideas what is should be and do?
cheers dave
Another check injection issue
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- Passed Theory
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Re: ANOTHER CHECK INGECTION ISSUE
just to clarify dave i withdrew the egr cleaned all that and also the housing it sits in.
gaz
gaz
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Re: ANOTHER CHECK INGECTION ISSUE
just another point now. on the way home from work i now think that the turbo has never kicked in while i have had it. i have had petrol turbo's but this is my first diesel turbo so was not sure if they felt the same when driving, ie turbo lag and then boost. the more i think about it the more( after seeing the actuator rod move as soon as revs increase) the more i think that the wastegate solenoid is totally shot and is not holding any boost at all.
Re: ANOTHER CHECK INGECTION ISSUE
Right, I did what I said I would, poppet the bonnet and got my torch out. There isn't much to report sadly. All I could see without removing the EGR assembly was nothing whatever. I could just about see the turbine end of the turbo, but there is so much ducting there it's unreal. There are two tubes going to the boost regulator thingy above the brake fluid master cylinder. It has a few wires going to it. One tube appears to go to the vacuum pump (right hand end of cam shaft). The other disappears vaguely in the direction of the turbo. I couldn't reach in to move any kind of actuator like I could on the old 1.9.
Sorry non of that was useful.
I'm puzzled now. First off, you should get lag and a surge of power when accelerating in 2nd from walking pace - about 1800-2000rpm it should pick up big time - if the turbo was not boosting the car would drive like a 500cc engine. Secondly, how in God's name did you get to the actuator without removing the EGR? We must have different layouts or something - there is no way on earth I could get my hand in.
The actuator simply alters the variable geometry on the turbine side. In one position the turbo won't spool, and in the other it will probably spool constantly. The actuator should therefore modulate between the two positions. There is no wastegate - this is what the variable geometry is all about.
I'm guessing the solenoid allows varying degrees of vacuum to reach the plenum and this in turn moves the actuator. Since the thing does move, it might merely be the solenoid that requires attention.
Check you don't have any air leaks - including the intercooler.
Someone else pitch in!
Sorry non of that was useful.
I'm puzzled now. First off, you should get lag and a surge of power when accelerating in 2nd from walking pace - about 1800-2000rpm it should pick up big time - if the turbo was not boosting the car would drive like a 500cc engine. Secondly, how in God's name did you get to the actuator without removing the EGR? We must have different layouts or something - there is no way on earth I could get my hand in.
The actuator simply alters the variable geometry on the turbine side. In one position the turbo won't spool, and in the other it will probably spool constantly. The actuator should therefore modulate between the two positions. There is no wastegate - this is what the variable geometry is all about.
I'm guessing the solenoid allows varying degrees of vacuum to reach the plenum and this in turn moves the actuator. Since the thing does move, it might merely be the solenoid that requires attention.
Check you don't have any air leaks - including the intercooler.
Someone else pitch in!
Silver 08 plate 5dr 1.5dci Dynamique 106 Tech Run (re-mapped)
Red 03 plate 5dr 1.9 Dynamique dci120
Best advice for Megane owners: sell it before it bankrupts you!
Red 03 plate 5dr 1.9 Dynamique dci120
Best advice for Megane owners: sell it before it bankrupts you!
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Re: ANOTHER CHECK INGECTION ISSUE
hi dave, well i'm confused now then. according to the haynes manual and other info i have read on the net it does have a wastgate. the turbo is a garratt turbo. as i look at the engine from the front there is the vacuum above and to the rear of the inlet manifold. there is one hose that comes from this and goes across to the right hand side of the engine bay and down to the solenoid. it is connect to one connect labelled vac. there is another hose that then comes from the solenoid labelled out and goes back across the top of the engine and finishes into the top of the wastegate.
i watched the wastegate/actuator rod move by looking between the inlet manifold ducting. and i somehow managed to get my left arm across ad down to feel and to move it.
i did end up removing all the air ducting to the manifold and the egr valve ad the battery. turbo spins by hand very easy.
i have had the car 2/3 months, have been looking at some of the history, the engine is from a 2004 model f9q-800 i think. was stripped down ad rebuilt with new turbo and new clutch and new injection equipment. the only thing that doesnt look new and to honest looks grubby and old is the boos pressure solenoid valve which is located below the ecu near the battery on the n/s of the car.
it looks like it has some sort of what can only be described as a small aiir filter type thing on the side. no bigger than a 5 pence piece. its like a piece of sponge but looks totally soaked in oil or water.
so the turbo should react the same whether petrol or diesel, so in that case i dont think it has every been working correctly. as i said or think i said earlier should the actuator rod move as soon as the revs are applied or not? the reason ii ask is that at tick over it didnt move but as soon as revs applied it moves into the actuator away from the turbo-if that makes sense. so i was trying to understand if the turbo has a wastegate valve, then if it is moving as soon as revs applied then it wont be creating any boost will it?
hope that makes some sense. all hoses have been checked and appear ok. as does the intercooler as far as i can see.
spoke to renault and surprise surprise they have never heard of that solenoid being replaced, although they said they new what it was they recommend a replacement turbo... i think not!!
well speak soon dave and thanks for the help
gaz
i watched the wastegate/actuator rod move by looking between the inlet manifold ducting. and i somehow managed to get my left arm across ad down to feel and to move it.
i did end up removing all the air ducting to the manifold and the egr valve ad the battery. turbo spins by hand very easy.
i have had the car 2/3 months, have been looking at some of the history, the engine is from a 2004 model f9q-800 i think. was stripped down ad rebuilt with new turbo and new clutch and new injection equipment. the only thing that doesnt look new and to honest looks grubby and old is the boos pressure solenoid valve which is located below the ecu near the battery on the n/s of the car.
it looks like it has some sort of what can only be described as a small aiir filter type thing on the side. no bigger than a 5 pence piece. its like a piece of sponge but looks totally soaked in oil or water.
so the turbo should react the same whether petrol or diesel, so in that case i dont think it has every been working correctly. as i said or think i said earlier should the actuator rod move as soon as the revs are applied or not? the reason ii ask is that at tick over it didnt move but as soon as revs applied it moves into the actuator away from the turbo-if that makes sense. so i was trying to understand if the turbo has a wastegate valve, then if it is moving as soon as revs applied then it wont be creating any boost will it?
hope that makes some sense. all hoses have been checked and appear ok. as does the intercooler as far as i can see.
spoke to renault and surprise surprise they have never heard of that solenoid being replaced, although they said they new what it was they recommend a replacement turbo... i think not!!
well speak soon dave and thanks for the help
gaz
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Re: ANOTHER CHECK INGECTION ISSUE
Hi All,
Have had the car in pieces over last weekend. There was ridiculous amounts of soot and, due to a diagnosed leaking turbo seal wet soot on top of that existing build-up. I am gobsmacked that this the cleaning job is not in the regular major service as Specified by Renault. I have a stamp in my book from a renault dealer for the major service and cant believe the induction system was not cleaned.
The EGR on my vehicle is the perpendicular one which sits in a cast alum. body. I had everything but the turbo off and this casing which is basically the head of a water cooled heat-exchanger to remove excess heat from the recycled CO2 gasses was completely clogged. after cleaning removing from the car and cleaning I found that the cavity accepting the re-directed air from the Egr was actually about an inch by 1/2 inch in side and I started with, you guessed it... barely a pencil in diameter. The Heat exchanger which is 316 stainless and has about 12 holes in was clogged up with deposits. Nowhere near as bad but would still make an issue. The 316 stainless induction pipe that is sealed by o-rings both ends and removed by un bolting and just slotting out to the left was COMPLETELY blocked! for a 1" diameter pipe to be restricted down to about 3/8" is where most of my power restriction has come from!
After piecing back together the car feels like new but the light came on again the other day. As I am awaiting a new seal kit for the turbo I will rebuild that first and exchange the vacuum pump and this part attached which is making a funny "overloaded solenoid" noise and then we will see if I get the light again. failing this I will be off to the dealer so if anyone else has any other ideas on the issue they would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again to Direstraits who aided me in initially diagnosing the problems. Everyone with a 1.5DCI 106hp (K9K 732/734) check the metal stainless steel u-bend pipe near the egr for build-up when you are cleaning your egr. You only need to unbolt the engine cover locator bracket to remove this pipe 2 x M8 hex bolts, and it slides out to the left.. Guaranteed if you are getting large amounts of build up on your egr... they will be here too!
As I have to re-seal the turbo I will be taking photos and documenting this for a guide so stay tuned on my guides for the following
Megane 1.5 DCI K9K 732/734 and respective engines
Cleaning of EGR, which will extend into
Cleaning of induction system components, for those a little more confident and willing to get dirty.
Bearing change or turbo rebulld
Vacuum pump replacement
Brake Disc replacement
The cheats guide to changing the headlamp bulbs
some already in progress so will hopefully have something to fellow enthusiasts soon.
Regards,
Justin
Have had the car in pieces over last weekend. There was ridiculous amounts of soot and, due to a diagnosed leaking turbo seal wet soot on top of that existing build-up. I am gobsmacked that this the cleaning job is not in the regular major service as Specified by Renault. I have a stamp in my book from a renault dealer for the major service and cant believe the induction system was not cleaned.
The EGR on my vehicle is the perpendicular one which sits in a cast alum. body. I had everything but the turbo off and this casing which is basically the head of a water cooled heat-exchanger to remove excess heat from the recycled CO2 gasses was completely clogged. after cleaning removing from the car and cleaning I found that the cavity accepting the re-directed air from the Egr was actually about an inch by 1/2 inch in side and I started with, you guessed it... barely a pencil in diameter. The Heat exchanger which is 316 stainless and has about 12 holes in was clogged up with deposits. Nowhere near as bad but would still make an issue. The 316 stainless induction pipe that is sealed by o-rings both ends and removed by un bolting and just slotting out to the left was COMPLETELY blocked! for a 1" diameter pipe to be restricted down to about 3/8" is where most of my power restriction has come from!
After piecing back together the car feels like new but the light came on again the other day. As I am awaiting a new seal kit for the turbo I will rebuild that first and exchange the vacuum pump and this part attached which is making a funny "overloaded solenoid" noise and then we will see if I get the light again. failing this I will be off to the dealer so if anyone else has any other ideas on the issue they would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again to Direstraits who aided me in initially diagnosing the problems. Everyone with a 1.5DCI 106hp (K9K 732/734) check the metal stainless steel u-bend pipe near the egr for build-up when you are cleaning your egr. You only need to unbolt the engine cover locator bracket to remove this pipe 2 x M8 hex bolts, and it slides out to the left.. Guaranteed if you are getting large amounts of build up on your egr... they will be here too!
As I have to re-seal the turbo I will be taking photos and documenting this for a guide so stay tuned on my guides for the following
Megane 1.5 DCI K9K 732/734 and respective engines
Cleaning of EGR, which will extend into
Cleaning of induction system components, for those a little more confident and willing to get dirty.
Bearing change or turbo rebulld
Vacuum pump replacement
Brake Disc replacement
The cheats guide to changing the headlamp bulbs
some already in progress so will hopefully have something to fellow enthusiasts soon.
Regards,
Justin
Re: ANOTHER CHECK INGECTION ISSUE
Now I'm confused. Justin has the 1.5dci like mine.
The layout you describe, kazgaz1, sounds like the 1.9 layout with the vacuum reservoir (black bottle). My 1.5 doesn't have this (or not that I have yet found! - see signature).
What car have you got kazgaz1?! EDIT if it's a F9Q 800 then it is identical to my old car. I'll try and dig out some engine bay photos.
Sorry for the confusion....
The layout you describe, kazgaz1, sounds like the 1.9 layout with the vacuum reservoir (black bottle). My 1.5 doesn't have this (or not that I have yet found! - see signature).
What car have you got kazgaz1?! EDIT if it's a F9Q 800 then it is identical to my old car. I'll try and dig out some engine bay photos.
Sorry for the confusion....
Silver 08 plate 5dr 1.5dci Dynamique 106 Tech Run (re-mapped)
Red 03 plate 5dr 1.9 Dynamique dci120
Best advice for Megane owners: sell it before it bankrupts you!
Red 03 plate 5dr 1.9 Dynamique dci120
Best advice for Megane owners: sell it before it bankrupts you!
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Re: ANOTHER CHECK INGECTION ISSUE
hi dave yes it is the 1.9 dci, thats probably why i confused you when describing the layout. i have been looking on here and have seen an old thread with your photo on. after all the reading i have been doing i do beleive that it is the solenoid that is controlling the actuator for the variable vanes.....the connecting rod does not appear to move back into the turbo as revs increase....
so it will be off to the dealers i think to get the solenoid.
gaz
so it will be off to the dealers i think to get the solenoid.
gaz
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Re: ANOTHER CHECK INGECTION ISSUE
hi I was wondering if you have solved the problem and got rid of the p2263 code and if so how did you do it? ive got it on my 07 megane 1.5dci. but it comes up on my code reader as a pending fault.
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Re: Another check injection issue
Hi,
I have same issue on my 1.4 megane II. On motorway engine light flashes around 110-120 KM/H for few seconds. only one logged fault code of P0300.
Showed and paid two mechanics who said nothing is wrong. One time when i did not slow down when engine light was flashing, the service light came on and car lost power, had to stop on hard shoulder.
The vibrates erratically on idle and almost stalls when moving off.
One of mechanic disconnected a valve to EGR i think and engine picked up more revs and vibration was reduced. He said I need new suction valve but dont think thats the right name for it.
any help would be appreciated.
I have same issue on my 1.4 megane II. On motorway engine light flashes around 110-120 KM/H for few seconds. only one logged fault code of P0300.
Showed and paid two mechanics who said nothing is wrong. One time when i did not slow down when engine light was flashing, the service light came on and car lost power, had to stop on hard shoulder.
The vibrates erratically on idle and almost stalls when moving off.
One of mechanic disconnected a valve to EGR i think and engine picked up more revs and vibration was reduced. He said I need new suction valve but dont think thats the right name for it.
any help would be appreciated.
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- Joined: Wed Dec 14, 2016 3:48 pm
- Currently Drives:: 1.5 Megane
Re: Another check injection issue
I'm having a issue.
When on the motorway doing about 70 it looses power, service light comes on and says check ignition. The code
P2263 does not store when the vehicle is turned off.
I have cleaned the ECG valve. I am still getting this problem tho.
The question is should the piston move in the ECG valve when it's removed from the car. Mine is stuck but not sure if it's meant to be.
And any other hints regarding this issue?
When on the motorway doing about 70 it looses power, service light comes on and says check ignition. The code
P2263 does not store when the vehicle is turned off.
I have cleaned the ECG valve. I am still getting this problem tho.
The question is should the piston move in the ECG valve when it's removed from the car. Mine is stuck but not sure if it's meant to be.
And any other hints regarding this issue?
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