The Mégane II Owners' Club

Hi there am needing to take out a air box of a 2003 2.0litter to put a cone filter in.
thx

- Remove battery
- Unclip ECU connectors
- Remove battery tray / ECU
- Remove airbox-to-throttle body rubber tube

Then, with the battery tray removed, you'll be able to see the airbox's air intake tube that runs on top of the chassis leg. There are three extensions attached to the front end of the intake tube: cold air feed pipe from behind the grille, and two resonator chambers. Now remove all those three.

Next is the fun part if you're into s&m: You must pull the air intake tube free from the airbox. The problem is, there's not enough room for the tube to come forward and not enough room for the airbox to go backward!

I found out it helps to first manipulate the rubber bungs(?) away from around the airbox's locating pegs. This gives maybe a centimetre more clearance for the airbox to go back. Then you must free the clips holding the air pipe to the airbox, then push the airbox back as far as it will go, and at the same time twist the air pipe's front end so that it can be removed. (That's why you needed to remove those three extensions, with them still attached the pipe can't be twisted.)

With the air pipe removed, the airbox lifts right out.

Thx for that all done now and sounds great

They do sound good, you'll probably find your loosing bhp

Dose sound ace and it feels same as befor.

Cheers TheFinn, Ive tried for hours tonight and had no idea the battery had to come out too. there was me trying to yank the whole box out as it is haha. Cheers fella.

Thanks alot great help

Sadret89 wrote:- Remove battery
- Unclip ECU connectors
- Remove battery tray / ECU
- Remove airbox-to-throttle body rubber tube

Then, with the battery tray removed, you'll be able to see the airbox's air intake tube that runs on top of the chassis leg. There are three extensions attached to the front end of the intake tube: cold air feed pipe from behind the grille, and two resonator chambers. Now remove all those three.

Next is the fun part if you're into s&m: You must pull the air intake tube free from the airbox. The problem is, there's not enough room for the tube to come forward and not enough room for the airbox to go backward!

I found out it helps to first manipulate the rubber bungs(?) away from around the airbox's locating pegs. This gives maybe a centimetre more clearance for the airbox to go back. Then you must free the clips holding the air pipe to the airbox, then push the airbox back as far as it will go, and at the same time twist the air pipe's front end so that it can be removed. (That's why you needed to remove those three extensions, with them still attached the pipe can't be twisted.)

With the air pipe removed, the airbox lifts right out.

The air intake in that picture is sucking warm air in from the engine bay, rather than cool external air... I wouldn't fancy that.

Forced air induction is the way to go...

No theres a 70mm Pipercross pipe which runs from underneath the front of the bumper, under the battery where the original cold air feed was, straight to the filter.

I tell you what on my dci it makes the turbo sound sweeeeeeettttttt, that ***pissstttt*** sound everytime i let my foot off the accelerator.

Sadret89 wrote:No theres a 70mm Pipercross pipe which runs from underneath the front of the bumper, under the battery where the original cold air feed was, straight to the filter.

I tell you what on my dci it makes the turbo sound sweeeeeeettttttt, that ***pissstttt*** sound everytime i let my foot off the accelerator.

Doesnt the pisssst sound come from a petrol turbo though a dump valve 'waste gate'? On a turbo with a proper dump valve its more like a 'chattering' sound due to the much higher pressure which does sound well.... I cant see how an induction kit makes any differeance mind you. But good job with it... yea the air intake was missing from the pic!

no no its the other way round, diesel turbos have more torqur but after a certain amount of revs the turbo produces a steady amount f pressure thats y it better to short shift on diesels

Sadret89 is right, i've done this to my Kia, not only do you get the sound like there is a dump valve on it without actualy having a dump valve the whistle from the turbo is alot louder.

Also, i had the cat removed from my Kia and mapped it to 155 (from a 1.6 )

TheFinn wrote:- Remove battery
- Unclip ECU connectors
- Remove battery tray / ECU
- Remove airbox-to-throttle body rubber tube

Then, with the battery tray removed, you'll be able to see the airbox's air intake tube that runs on top of the chassis leg. There are three extensions attached to the front end of the intake tube: cold air feed pipe from behind the grille, and two resonator chambers. Now remove all those three.

Next is the fun part if you're into s&m: You must pull the air intake tube free from the airbox. The problem is, there's not enough room for the tube to come forward and not enough room for the airbox to go backward!

I found out it helps to first manipulate the rubber bungs(?) away from around the airbox's locating pegs. This gives maybe a centimetre more clearance for the airbox to go back. Then you must free the clips holding the air pipe to the airbox, then push the airbox back as far as it will go, and at the same time twist the air pipe's front end so that it can be removed. (That's why you needed to remove those three extensions, with them still attached the pipe can't be twisted.)

With the air pipe removed, the airbox lifts right out.

If you disconnect the battery/ecu do you need the car's remote keycards reprogrammed and re-enter your radio code? or is it just replug everything back in and all is fine

Im not sure on disconneting the battery and ecu coz dont want to kill the car as its the daily runner

Wont effect the key cards at all mate, just the radio code will need to be re entered.

Cheers fella, was going to fit a Induction cone but I got scared and bought a new panel filter = Fail