The Mégane II Owners' Club

all documented in here viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8855
see the "Toxic Fume / Engine Mgmt Light" section, there is a follow-on link to some more details.
very easy job.

their both right !!!.
you can buy discs with or without the bearings and with or without the ABS ring...which implies the bearings can be purchased seperately. if the discs are OK, the new bearings can be pressed into them.

are you sure you have the right disc with bearing AND abs ring built in, or did you swap the ABS ring from the old disc ?

vilguy wrote:Idle control valve playing up?

it doesn't have an ICV...the throttle body has a bypass butterfly that handles the idle..I's start with giving the throttle body a good clean out with carb cleaner also check the air intake hose hasn't got any cracks / leaks....beyond that could be an engine sensor.

you must have something wrong with the central locking..the boot is unlocked when doors are unlocked, so with engine running doors unlocked the boot should open via the boot button. you shouldn't need to use the keycard.

the drain will be blocked.check this out for the location.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12727

the seems to be the way the modern battery goes...in the good old days you had plenty of warning that your battery was on the way out, struggle to start, dimming lights, but these modern ones seem to collapse internally without warning, so ok one day, not the next.

mac20 wrote:changed the 5amp radio fuse which sorted it out for a day now it has blown the fuse again

radio fuse should be a 15amp fuse

good result, so would disconnecting the battery overnight have sorted this or are these fault codes stored until cleared by an clip/ELM reader ?

you need to take it back - the new dephaser could be faulty. on the range - if the battery was disconnected then it will take some miles of driving to find the range again as it's based on the stored learned driving patterns...if you haven't driven it much it won't have relearned the setting. if it'...

it's normal...it's the compressor engaging

sounds like there is play in the balljoint, an easy (ish) cheap fix.

if not on flat ground park it the other way round, can resolve the issue

to order a new card they need to see the V5 document and they take a few days to arrive and then need coding with the car present.

if it's a "twang" noise then it is usually top strut bearing.