The Mégane II Owners' Club

This sounds like a Card issue and not the reader. The retaining clips are to secure the card from falling out when driving and not related to the operation of the Card/Reader or to starting the car. If a little twist of the Card whilst it's in the reader starts the car, then the aerial in the Card h...

I'd start by replacing the little titty (thermistor) that hangs out of the bottom of your drivers side mirror housing. Carefully pop the glass out, cut the old one off and solder the new one in, heat-shrinking the joints too.

Assuming you have discharge lamps, they will self test when you turn on the ignition (a quick up and down movement). If they do this at any other time other than driving, IE accelerating or braking, it's likely one of the axle sensors is faulty or detached from it's joint. Have a look at your front ...

Many likely causes for this but the most common faults are: 1. a faulty latch micro switch (check by disconnecting/reconnecting 1 door at a time and monitoring the indicator light). 2. broken wiring in the boot loom between the lid and body inside the rubber sleeve. 3. water ingress and corrosion of...

You can swap the sensor plugs over to alter sensitivity on Megane too. White for red and red for white. Normally located near the siren. If the sensors are damaged or need replacing, they're available from Renault. Also worth checking, make sure the sensor wiring isn't tied in with the main alarm lo...

I'd start with the rear light cluster connectors. Corrosion and pin burn-outs are very common there, especially burnt out earth pins.

Renaults CLIP diagnostic tool will show it for sure if it's logged but there's plenty of generic EOBD code readers about that might show the code if it's logged. Might be worth scanning this forum as they get mentioned quite often.

If your air-con was out of gas when it was first looked at, it is likely it stored a 'cold loop' code in the engine ECU. This prevents the A/C from running when the system is empty to stop pump siezures. When the system is refilled, the code must be cleared for the A/C to work again. The pressure sw...

Before you shell out any cash, check your front hub nut/driveshaft nut is tight. I've seen some come loose and when checked, the play in the splines is mistaken for play in the CV joint.

The most common cause is 1 or more failed glow plugs. A DTC test would be a good place to start but if you can't get to a code reader then a test the glow plugs would be my next step.

I've had similar issues caused by water ingress and subsequently corrosion inside the A pillar connectors for the door harnesses, especially the drivers. Might be worth having a look inside these before moving to something more complex like the UCH which is the common element between the front windo...

Emergency opening of the boot. Drop the back seats. Crawl in the boot. Slide the white square on the latch across while pushing on the boot lid. http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd29/Corpusan/IMAG0376.jpg There is also an emergency lock procedure for all doors. I'll post it if you have no luck wit...

Might be of use to you.

Since you've had the gearbox replaced recently and i'm not sure what engine type you have, on certain engines (i think 1.9) there is a large earth to the gearbox down by the cooling fan. I've seen several of these fracture due to vibration causing intermittant loss of electrics. Also worth checking ...

'Grubby' is fine, nothing wrong with that. Wet is not so good though. Can I ask, does this only leak when you've filled up the fuel tank or does it leak when the fuel level is low too?